Running a distinctive, locally owned sandwich shop in this day and age -- when a certain bland, queasy-yellow sandwich chain grins at you from virtually every corner -- probably isn't easy.
But then there's Allegheny Sandwich Shoppe, now entering its 28th year. It's hard to imagine the quiet, charming little business strip of Western Avenue on the North Side without it.
It's a small, squat, brown-and-green, '70s-looking building that's somehow easy to miss, even though it contrasts with the stately Victorian architecture of Allegheny West.
Inside, it gets claustrophobically busy between noon and 1 p.m., then totally clears out. The waitresses can get a little loopy after the rush and tend to let their hair down a bit -- and the regular clientele can be a little on the boisterous side. But overall, it's a pretty friendly vibe, and service is surprisingly quick.
The giant sandwiches are the major attractions here -- roast beef, especially -- and they never skimp on the meat. "Our House Specialty" ($5.95) is carved roast beef, cooked daily. According to one occasional lunch companion, the sandwich should come with a surgeon general's warning. Seemingly endless layers of thin, tender roast beef are covered in a savory brown gravy and stuffed inside two thick slices of Texas Toast.
The Dagwood ($6.75) is another classic: a triple-decker of lean roast beef, sliced smoked turkey and bacon, with provolone, Swiss and lettuce stacked on three thick slices of excellent marble rye. It's outstanding, but keep that toothpick holding it together, or you'll end up with half of it in your lap.
The Northside Grill ($5.95) is yet another no-nonsense sandwich -- and probably my favorite. It's a hot, gooey concoction of grilled turkey breast, sauteed mushrooms, melty Swiss, tomatoes and several layers of provolone and American cheese. It's hearty, sure, but definitely falls on the "manageable" side of the spectrum. You'll actually be able to eat this in one sitting.
In the unlikely event that this isn't enough food for you, I can vouch for the soups, which are similarly hearty, unpretentious belly-filling classics. The Vegetable Soup ($1.75 cup; $2.75 bowl) is a meal in itself, with sliced potatoes, onions and macaroni in a dark, tomato-heavy broth.
But don't be fooled by the name, vegetarian. There's Italian sausage lurking in its murky depths.
--- I didn't get to try ...
The Steel City Slammer sounds like some sort of skull-cracking Bruno Sammartino wrestling maneuver -- which I love. Unfortunately, the combination of roast beef, corned beef, swiss, coleslaw and horseradish on marble rye has me trying to tap out just reading it. Someday when I don't have to go back to work ...
-- Michael Machosky
Allegheny Sandwich Shoppe
Hours: 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat.
Address: 822 Western Ave., North Side
Phone: 412-322-4797
