Lunch review: Mad Mex

Mad Mex has somehow become almost as much a Pittsburgh institution as Primanti Bros. This is pretty great for a pseudo-Mexican restaurant, especially given the scarcity of actual Mexicans in Pittsburgh. But now that strange, foreign concepts such as "chipotle" and "chile relleno" no longer threaten the formerly spice-phobic tastes of Middle America, Mad Mex could really find a loving home anywhere.

And it is -- slowly. If ever a Pittsburgh-based restaurant has what it takes to thrive elsewhere, it's Mad Mex, which has found a way to span across the Great Pennsylvania Divide, opening branches in State College and Philadelphia.

The Oakland branch is the original, and good luck getting a table after 4:30 p.m. It's tiny and dark, and the tables are so close together that even the most well-targeted fork is almost as likely to enter your neighbor's elbow as it is that steaming-hot enchilada. In the evenings, the sound system shakes the walls with throbbing electronica and hipster rock staples such as The Smiths, so there's no point in conversing in anything less than a hoarse shout.

But go there for lunch and ... it's practically empty! We don't know whether the student population of South Oakland is in class or still nursing hangovers, but midday is the time to come here. The music is even quiet enough to talk over!

Mad Mex serves more of a Cali-Mex cuisine, not the ubiquitous watered-down Tex-Mex of Chi Chi's, Don Pablo's, etc. The Big Burrito chefs have come up with some really fun, original dishes that sacrifice none of the bold, spicy flavors of real Mexican food. And you can't say Mad Mex doesn't have fun with its own pseudo-Mexican status -- with dish names such as El Bombo Numero Tres ($10), Nacho Momma's Taco Platter ($9.50.), etc.

Speaking of spicy, if you start out with the Red Bean Turkey Chili ($2.50 cup; $3.50 bowl), you're in for a face-melting, fire-breathing treat. The demonic carved wooden masks hanging over the bar seemed to delight in our distress. Large pieces of turkey are submerged deep within this molten lava-red chili, which is only cut slightly by a big dollop of sour cream.

You can't come here and not get the chips and salsa. The super-crunchy, house-made blue and golden-yellow corn chips (Pitt colors!) can be dipped in any number of salsas. The blazing Fire-roasted Tomato-chipotle Salsa ($2) and the mild, fruity Tequila-pineapple-mango Salsa ($2) are a nice one-two punch.

Los Wingos ($5.75 for 7; $8 for 14) can do battle with any other wings in Western Pennsylvania, available in "mild," "wild" or "insane." Go for the San Francisco style, with just a hint of garlic and honey.

The overly hyphenated Grilled Shrimp Taquito-Enchi-Combo ($14) is a powerful platter of what Mad Mex does best. There's an Adobo Shrimp skewer, Mexican rice, black beans and pineapple-mango salsa. The Shrimp Taquitos are excellent, rolled very thin and, surprisingly, not fried. You get warm blue cornbread on the side, which is uncharacteristically moist.

The Vegetarian Pepper Platter ($11), according to our waitress, is what everybody's ordering these days. It's three mild green peppers, stuffed with shredded eggs, onions and red peppers. The egg gives the peppers a meaty texture and heft, without the actual meat. There are also a few big grilled portobello mushroom caps, slathered in a rich roasted corn sauce, and salsa and jicama slaw on the side. Another side of steamed asparagus was uncharacteristically overcooked, the only blemish on this otherwise stellar new dish.

There's a menu of lunch specials in the $6 to $7 range, which serves slightly smaller portions of some popular selections.

Then there's the whole issue of Mad Mex's giant, awe-inspiring margaritas -- supposedly the only authentic margaritas (no pre-made mix) in town. If you're heading back to work after lunch, beware -- they're quite good but pack quite a punch.

Additional Information:

Details

Mad Mex

Hours : 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily

Address: 370 Atwood St., Oakland

Phone: (412) 681-5656