The bagel boom might be on the downward slope now, hammered by fad diets and newer fast food concepts. But even if the novelty has worn off, a good bagel will always find its audience. And a little creativity and an ear to the ground can still make the bagel a winner, even now.
Pittsburgh's Bagel Factory, which bills itself as "Pittsburgh's only independent bagel bakery," is a perfect example. It's a Squirrel Hill family-owned operation, which has locations in Shadyside and Fox Chapel, now opening a new location on Forbes Avenue.
Never mind that the old owner of the space was a bagel shop. The storefront is painted in black and white splotches now, like a cow (isn't that color scheme taken?).
The Bagel Factory's newest addition wasn't even open yet when we got in -- a self-contained Ben & Jerry's franchise with its own counter inside the Bagel Factory. It's run with the help and for the benefit of Life's Work of Western Pennsylvania, a nonprofit vocational rehabilitation program. Ben and Jerry -- the hippie ice cream moguls themselves -- will be here in July to check out the progress.
The Bagel Factory doesn't put all its bagels in one basket, doing so many different things that something's bound to catch on. Instead of a one-size-fits-all approach like Panera or Bruegger's, the Bagel Factory delves into the local flavors of Squirrel Hill, with Jewish deli-style cuisine and traditional favorites.
For a taste of old Squirrel Hill in a brand new setting, try the Hot Brisket of Beef or Hot Pastrami ($7.95), served on two potato latkes, with applesauce on the side. A Nova Lox Bagel ($6.25), on the other hand, seems kind of New York City, with tomatoes, purple onions, a smear of cream cheese and salty capers. Matzoh Brie ($4.95) is fried with eggs and onions, and served with applesauce and sour cream on the side. Get it slathered with maple syrup.
Yes, there's an actual menu beyond bagels. The possibilities for omelettes alone are kind of daunting. An Omelette Your Way ($4.50) can be augmented with tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach, green peppers, onions, six different kinds of cheese (50 cents each) and even kosher salami or chopped lox ($1).
All the 23 set bagel sandwiches are also available on bread, or as lettuce wraps for Atkins sufferers. The B.L.T. ($3.75) is particularly good. We got it on a fresh honey oat bagel with massive stacks of high-quality bacon and a giant kosher pickle on the side. Although the pickles seem to get smaller with each visit, they're always better than the soggy slices from Bruegger's.
Salads are fresh and plentiful, with the House Favorite ($6.95) a fairly decent representative. Lush field greens, diced tomatoes and purple onions mingle with sugary walnuts and a sparse sprinkling of goat cheese. Unfortunately, ours was drenched in lemon balsamic vinaigrette, despite the fact that we asked for it on the side. Chicken Soup with Matzoh Balls ($3.50) comes in a massive 16-ounce cup. It was a mistake to get this with a bagel -- the giant matzohs are almost bagel-sized themselves -- but the chicken stock with onions, carrot slivers and shredded chicken is good enough to stand by itself.
Service was a little slow, and because the counter is so long and crowded with food, coffee mugs, preserves, etc., the ordering procedure is sort of unclear. But this is pretty common for a new restaurant, and hopefully things will be moving smoothly when Ben & Jerry's brings in the crowds. Additional Information:
Details
The Bagel FactoryHours: 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily
Address: 5885 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill
Phone: (412) 521-8100
