Maybe it's a sign that Indian food is not the hip, trendy cuisine it once was -- but it seems like little Indian cafes are proliferating wildly in Pittsburgh. Since we're always a couple years (or decades) behind the times, maybe it's just our good luck to finally get our overdue allotment of curries, chutneys and kebabs.
They're not in the city as much -- which seems to only have room for Thai food (again, not a bad thing) -- but every dilapidated strip mall from here to Latrobe seems to have a new little outpost of fiery Indian cuisine. There's rarely much difference between them, and the cuisine ranges from average to indifferent. But there are a few real gems out there, too.
One of the best was Sitar in Highland Park, which even had an interesting name. It was bought out recently by Taj Mahal, long the only Indian outpost on McKnight Road. It's still an attractive space -- not one of the seven wonders of the world, but it'll do -- with comfy, dark red circular booths along one wall, and white silk swag dangling from the ceiling to the booths, like it's ready for a wedding. But the radio inappropriately blaring Eminem at the bar is kind of like drunk old Uncle Vijay, who keeps doing the chicken dance long after the music has stopped.
As a college student, I depended on the McKnight Road Taj Mahal's buffet -- as one of the only cheap and remotely healthy all-you-can-eat options near my job. But I've long since burned out on old, cold Indian food left sitting out all afternoon -- and the best pakoras were gone if you didn't get there first.
So hit the buffet if you must. I'll crack the massive menu -- still labeled "Sitar" -- and let you know what's worth making a special trip for, and what isn't.
Start with a drink. Mango Lassi ($2.50), specifically -- it's a mango-yogurt concoction that drinks like a thin milkshake, in case your taste buds get torched by something too spicy for your tastes.
But mostly, if you choose wisely on the 1-to-10 scale, the flavors at Taj Mahal are pretty mild. The Mulligatawny Soup ($3.50) could have used a little something, spice or otherwise, to cut the overwhelmingly salty flavor of this thin, broth-heavy vegetable, lentil and chicken soup.
You always need a bread for dipping, wrapping and/or spice-dulling purposes. With over twenty choices, there's a bread for every taste. Avoid the greasy, deep-fried Poori ($1.99), which doesn't puff out into a giant bread bubble like it ought to. The Peshawari Naan ($3.50) is a better choice, a fresh leavened bread with sesame seeds and a dash of sweetness from the yellow raisins inside. Mint Paratha ($2.99) is also good -- a thick whole wheat and onion bread with the slightest taste of mint.
Kadhai Paneer ($8.99) takes the familiar tofu-like Indian cheese and coats it in a light orange sauce, made from tomatoes, onions, ginger and bell peppers. Unfortunately, the paneer wasn't as moist as it should be, and it could have used some more ginger and larger tomato pieces for textural variety.
The Tandoori Mix Grill ($11.99) is ideal for carnivores -- sampling a number of meat staples from the tandoor -- the special clay Indian oven -- and served sizzling hot. The chicken tikka kebabs sport the telltale reddish-orange traces of fiery spices, but they're not too hot, and surprisingly tender. The lamb boti kababs on the other hand -- marinated in a hot masala and barbecued in the tandoor -- were spiced to ignite on contact. Additional Information:
Details
The Taj MahalHours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays; 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and Sundays; 5 to 10:30 p.m. Fridays through Saturdays
Address: 5904 Bryant St., Highland Park.
Phone: (412) 364-1760.
