Each year, during the long, hot days of summer, I rediscover the great Mediterranean tradition of enjoying aperitifs with light snacks prior to the evening meal. It is a satisfying way to mark the transition from the work of the day to relaxation in the late afternoon and, at the same time, sharpen the taste buds for a warm-weather dinner.
Unlike the traditional "cocktail" hour, in which liquor -- such as whiskey, gin and vodka -- are the focus, Mediterranean-style aperitifs offer a wide range of beverages featuring distinctive aromas and colors. They fall into the broad categories of distilled spirits steeped in herbs and spices; wine-based aperitifs fortified with spirits and sometimes other flavors; wine (typically either sparkling or dry white) flavored with liqueur, rose wines and sherries.
Aperitifs reflect the incredible variety and diversity of cultures and traditions around the Mediterranean, and part of the fun of aperitifs is to dip into and savor these wonderful choices to discover what suits your taste. There are no formal rules other than to relax prior to the evening meal.
The same goes with the food served with aperitifs. In Europe, bite-sized snacks are traditional. Salty items, either alone or in combination with something sweet, are a good choice. They should be finger foods, and the portions kept small because the meal will follow.
As Georgeanne Brennan observes in "Aperitif: Stylish Drinks & Recipes for the Cocktail Hour" (Chronicle Books, $18.95), the food is what the French call amuse-gueles -- "mouth ticklers."
For example, toasted almonds and pistachios are popular throughout France. Gougere , a small puff pastry flavored with cheese, is traditional in Burgundy, while anchovy puffs are a common choice throughout the Mediterranean region.
In the south of France and in Spain, brine-cured olives and black olive tapenade spread on small pieces of toast are favored. Dried dates and Parmesan cheese also are served, especially with dry sherry.
The following are a few of my favorite aperitifs:
Pastis: Pastis is the generic French term for a number of alcoholic beverages imbued with star anise, fennel and other herbs and spices secret to each brand. Ricard, France (available nationally for about $20; call (800) 332-7522 for availability in Pennsylvania) and Pernod, France (5505, $23.99) are the most popular brands. Ricard has an amber color; Pernod has a brilliant yellow color with green glints.
Both beverages turn a cloudy, milky color when served over ice and diluted with 5 parts water. The dilution cuts the alcohol to about 6 percent. Both beverages offer seductive aromas of licorice; served well chilled, they provide mouth-watering but thirst-quenching refreshment.
A glass of pastis reminds me of visits to the warm vineyards of southern Rhone and enjoying an aperitif at one of the many local outdoor cafes and restaurant patios. It also brings back memories of visits to Parisian sidewalk cafes and bistros.
Campari: Campari Aperitivo, Italy (5484, $22.99) is a flavored spirit with an astonishing, blazing red color and enticing aromas of oranges. The flavor has a distinctive and pleasant bitter aspect that provides delightful, beguiling refreshment when served over ice and 5 parts soda water with a twist of orange or lemon.
Campari is especially popular in the beachside cafes and hotels of southern Italy. Imbibers use it to beat the heat from the sun after a long day on the beach.
I enjoyed several Campari soda aperitifs last September in Calabria, Italy, when I visited my grandfather's ancestral hometown of Lago near the seaside village of Amantea.
Lillet: Lillet Blanc, France (6359, $15.19) is a unique blend of Bordeaux white wines -- sauvignon Blanc and semillon --mixed with citrus-flavored brandies and quinine. Served well chilled on the rocks, Lillet has fruity aromas and crisp, refreshing flavors. Unlike pastis and Campari, which remain stable after opening, Lillet Blanc is a wine-based aperitif that must be consumed within a week or so of opening. Lillet Blanc reminds me of Chez Panisse Restaurant and Cafe in Berkeley, Calif., where it is served in the upstairs bar.
Dave DeSimone is a member of the American Wine Society. He can be heard daily on KQV Radio with the Wine Cellar reports. He can be reached at ddesimone@tribweb.com.
| Cellar Key |
Recommended: Indicates a well-made table wine ready for immediate enjoyment with everyday meals and offering good value.
Highly Recommended: Indicates a well-made table wine ready for immediate enjoyment and offering very good value on a particularly well-made example of its type.
Cellar Selection: Indicates a well-made table wine that requires additional bottle aging in a temperature-controlled cellar to reach peak enjoyment.
Note: Code numbers and prices refer to the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board system unless otherwise indicated.
