Millvale's Grant Bar & Lounge has meals, desserts, atmosphere to warm appetites, hearts

Few restaurants evoke such a strong sense of nostalgia like Grant Bar & Lounge in Millvale.

The exterior of the corner bar is warmly wrapped in walls of white and rich wooden slats that form the familiar Tudor-style lattice often found in Pittsburgh neighborhoods. That style beckons to the everyman and so, is perfect for housing one of the city's most welcoming eateries.

The family-friendly tavern, which opened some 80 years ago, is family-owned and operated. It boasts a menu of traditional steak and seafood dishes, loads of secret family recipes and award-winning pies. The Ruzomberka family is still an active part of the business, with Frank (son of the original owner), still cranking out dozens of his famous pies daily.

Upon entering the dimly lit, cozy bar, you are greeted by a handful of individuals. The bartenders, hosts/hostesses, whichever waiter/waitress happens to be walking past, make you immediately feel welcome. The bar and dining area, packed no matter the hour, are dotted with families of all shapes and sizes. Young kids tucking into their chicken tenders, an elderly couple grinning over coffee and a slice of pie or a table of 30-something friends who just had to try out this Pittsburgh staple they've been hearing about for ages.

The appetizers are generously portioned and easily shareable, and while the fried shrimp isn't technically listed as a starter, we recommend ordering the dish a la carte as a taste of what's to come. The five splayed, juicy shrimp come lightly coated in one of those special family recipes — a seasoned breading that coats several of the items on the seafood menu. They're fried and served in the tail with crackers, lemon and a tangy cocktail sauce.

You can opt for the special Turtle Soup (a vegetable-style soup made with turtle meat), a long-lost American tradition. Or try their soup du jour (ours was clam chowder) before your meal arrives.

Due to the nature of the entrees, you're invited to select sides to accompany your fish, pork, beef or chicken. The homemade theme continues with options like pickled red beets and onions and applesauce. You can load up on veggies, coleslaw and starches (french fries, baked potato and home fries are all available).

Now, the hard part is deciding the meal with which to pair those sides. All inviting in a stick-to-your-ribs kind of way, the offerings range from beef liver and onions to charbroiled pork chops and baked cod Almondine.

While the dishes are a nod to the foods we've grown up eating, they lack that certain something that is supposed to make them classics. The broiled seafood platter, for instance, was a beautiful display of shrimp, scallops, crab cakes and salmon filet. The crab cake, while flavorful in seasoning selection, was largely filler. The bones of the menu are there, but I think it could benefit from a little more attention to quality.

One thing on the menu that has been perfected over time and stands as a testament to quality, consistency and food made with love is the pie. Pittsburgh has come to know and love the pies of Frank Ruzomberka, thanks in part to another Pittsburgh legend in his own right, Rick Sebak. We first learned of Grant Bar from Sebak some years ago and we have him to thank for introducing us to the now crave-worthy coconut cream pie we often dream about.

Coconut cream, banana cream, chocolate cream, apple pie … the list goes on and each is as astonishingly delectable as the other. The generous slices are a perfect way to end a meal at the Grant Bar, or in my opinion, can stand entirely as the reason to visit. Each pie is handcrafted and balances a flaky crust with filling and, sometimes, whipped topping.

I was lucky enough to have two of my favorite pies spectacularly blended into one. Because I'm no stranger to Grant Bar's coconut cream pie, i decided to try a new gem. Throughout dinner, I faced an internal struggle between banana cream pie and chocolate cream pie (tough choice, I know). But I was thrilled to learn I wouldn't have to choose, because Ruzomberka perfected the Chocolate Banana Cream Pie and it was available that night. I was not disappointed. Made with slices of real bananas and a fluffy chocolate filing were all piled high on top of his famous crust.

Those slices are, by far, the shining star of the entire Grant Bar experience. �

Amanda McFadden is one of the food-savvy ladies of eatPGH.com, who contribute a weekly Dining Out column to Trib Total Media.