Mixing it up
A fresh flavor synthesis has arrived on the North Shore.
In contrast to the usual neighborhood variety of pub grub burgers, fries and nachos, the New Moon Fusion Restaurant offers a stylish spot for a more sophisticated palate.
New Moon is a block away from PNC Park. But its menu offers a complexity of flavors that aligns it more with The Andy Warhol Museum across the street.
Under the guidance of executive chef Roger C. Li, New Moon creatively fuses Pan Asian flavors with a few American sensibilities into beautifully presented dishes.
The dining room avoids the design elements of a traditional Asian eatery. A two-sided gas fireplace breaks up the space and provides a glow of warmth. The background music offers another fusion of sorts -- jazz.
Even the drinks menu tosses in some innovative tastes. The refreshing New Moon ($9) combines vodka, pineapple juice, blue Caracao and blueberry schnapps. Green Tea ($7) is a concoction of Malibu Rum, plum wine, Midori and pineapple juice. And the Sake Martini ($8) mixes plum wine, cranberry juice and Cointreau.
Starters are innovative and delightful. Full Moon is one of those places where ordering nothing but appetizers offers a satisfying table full of great bites.
The Firecracker Roll ($6.50), for example, takes large shrimp, rolls each into a thin eggroll wrap and fries them to a golden crunch. The end product looks like a firecracker with the shrimp tail sticking out like a fuse. A spicy Thai chili plum sauce and Asian slaw accompany.
The Firecracker is not to be confused with the TNT Roll ($9), a completely different animal. This is a version of a California roll with crab, tuna and salmon rolled in rice and enclosed in a wrap of seaweed, then dipped in tempura and fried. On the plate it is sliced into manageable pieces for sharing. The dip here is a spicy mayonnaise.
The four-slice Peking Duck Quesadillas ($8) is a nice interpretation of East meets West. Sides are hoisin sauce and cucumbers.
Crispy Buttermilk-Marinated Calamari ($7) are light and lovely. These also come on a salad ($7.50). And the Veal Pot Stickers ($6) are tender triangles accompanied by a cucumber salad and soy glaze.
Soups range from a gentle Miso Soup ($4) with tofu and wakame to a hearty Cheddar Potato Soup ($4) that was the daily special on a recent visit.
Entrees, too, run the gamut -- from a kicked-up New York Strip Steak ($20) and pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass ($21) in a ginger and scallion glaze to more complicated Asian-style dishes.
Crispy Honey Walnut Shrimp ($16.50) is presented as a "crown" of lightly battered shrimp and steamed broccoli circled around a bed of greens tossed with honey walnuts. A sweet and creamy Grand Marnier cream sauce is drizzled over all.
Duck Breast ($18) is enhanced with a tangy tamarind glaze and served with a sweet potato mash. Samba Shrimp and Scallops ($18) are sauteed with squash, peppers and mango in a Malaysian chile sauce.
The short list of desserts also mixes traditional and inspired recipes.
Chocolate fiends will relish the rich Chocolate Confusion Cake ($6). True fans will turn down a cool Tiramisu ($6), New York-style Cheesecake ($6) or the silky textured Creme Brulee ($6).
But the best dessert of the house is the decadent Banana Spring Roll ($6). A delicate puff-pastry-sort-of-eggroll wrapper encases a banana with banana cheesecake. In a word: fabulous. A scoop of ice cream drizzled with caramel is the finishing touch.
At the moment, New Moon is a somewhat undiscovered gem. We're predicting good things once the word gets out.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.
Additional Information:
Details
New Moon Fusion Restaurant
Cuisine: Asian fusion
Entree price range: $15 to $23
Notes: Full bar and wine list. Take-out menu available. Handicapped accessible.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
Address: 20 E. General Robinson St., North Side
Details: 412-321-3525
