It's a shame Frank Sinatra isn't around to help Morton's of Chicago celebrate its 25th anniversary this year. The success of Morton's, an upscale, expensive steakhouse with 68 locations in the United States, Canada and Hong Kong, is based in large part on Ol' Blue Eyes. When the first Morton's opened in Chicago in 1978, a big snowstorm kept customers away for the first two nights. On the third night, the velvety crooner showed up with his entourage. Bill Ferron, general manager of the 250-seat Morton's in Pittsburgh, says that Sinatra was a patron of Morton's in whatever city he visited. "That's why our background music is always Frank Sinatra," Ferron explains, showing visitors through the popular steakhouse, on the bottom floor of the Dominion Towers on Liberty Avenue. "Frank helped us out in the beginning, so we owe him." Morton's The Steakhouse in Pittsburgh will celebrate its 10th anniversary in August. Forty-eight employees, including executive chef Todd Weiss, are behind the scenes of success. The restaurant is celebrated for prime aged beef, precisely prepared. Weiss is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and has been with Morton's for two years. Morton's approach to dining is to "exceed all expectations." Says Ferron, "That's pretty much our motto." The a la carte menu rarely changes. Appetizers are straightforward: sea scallops wrapped in bacon; smoked Pacific salmon; Bluepoint oysters on the half shell; lobster bisque; and sauteed wild mushrooms. Classics include a scrumptious Filet Oskar; Filet Diane; and New York Strip Steak au Poivre. Various other steaks, swordfish, veal chops, crab cakes, chicken and salmon fill out the entree listing. Steaks are flown in from Allen Bros. and Stockyards of Chicago. Foley Seafood in Boston handles the seafood orders. One of the secrets to Morton's buttery-soft steaks is the way they are prepared. Every site has a broiler oven kept at 800 degrees to 1,000 degrees. Beef cuts are seared and cooked for much shorter times than on a conventional grill or oven. "That seals in the juices and keeps the steaks moist inside," Ferron says. "We also use tongs, not forks, to turn the steaks." One of the most popular desserts is the sinfully delicious Godiva Hot Chocolate Cake. Serious chocolate lovers delight in the "cupcake" with a flow of hot Godiva chocolate coming from the middle. And nobody complains that a scoop of Haagen Daas vanilla ice cream on top is gilding the lily. "Oh, it's great," Ferron says. "It takes 35 minutes to make." Morton's uses a computer program that tells employees exactly how much food to prepare based on reservations and the night of the week. For example, the report might tell the chef to prepare 25 potatoes a certain way and a quart of bearnaise sauce for certain dishes, such as Filet Oskar. That way, Ferron says, the kitchen staff doesn't "overprep." Ferron, pointing to pictures on one of the restaurant's "walls of fames," says that Morton's is host to many hockey, baseball and football players. Politicians frequent the restaurant, too, as do patrons of the theater, opera and symphony. Weiss shared these recipes with "Cooking Class."

Filet Oskar

Bearnaise Sauce (recipe follows) 1 (10-ounce) filet mignon 2 spears blanched asparagus (same size) 2 ounces jumbo lump crabmeat 1 pinch chopped fresh parsley Prepare the Bearnaise Sauce and hold it in a warm area, such as the side of the stove. Light a grill or broiler. Grill or broil the filet mignon to the desired doneness. Meanwhile, cut each asparagus spear in half crosswise, then split lengthwise. Place the asparagus and crabmeat in a single layer in a pie tin or on a cookie sheet (see photo). Heat thoroughly in a 400-degree oven for about 8 to 10 minutes. When the beef is cooked, remove it from the broiler or grill and slice it in half against the grain. Place each half on a plate. Remove the crabmeat and asparagus from the oven and place the 4 pieces of asparagus halves on top of each filet to form a squared-off crosshatch design (the crabmeat will rest on this). Place the asparagus carefully so that it will contain and support the crabmeat. Place 1 ounce of crabmeat on top of the asparagus on each filet half. Pour 3 tablespoons Bearnaise Sauce over the top of each filet half (see photo). Top the Filet Oskar with a sprinkle of fresh chopped parsley. Editor's note: The following recipe is an adaptation of Weiss' signature sauce, based on the classic recipe for bearnaise sauce in "The Professional Chef, 7th edition" by the Culinary Institute of America (John Wiley & Sons Inc., $65).

Bearnaise Sauce

1 tablespoon chopped shallots 1 tablespoon dried tarragon 1/4 cup white vinegar 2 tablespoons dry white wine 1/4 cup water 6 egg yolks 2 cups (1 pint) unsalted butter, clarified if desired, melted 2 teaspoons lemon juice Dash hot pepper sauce Dash Worcestershire sauce Salt, to taste White pepper, to taste Combine the shallots, dried tarragon and vinegar in a pan. Cook over medium heat (reduce) until nearly dry. Add the wine and water to the reduction and strain the mixture into a stainless steel bowl. Whip the egg yolks together with the reduction and place the container over simmering water. Cook, whisking constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form ribbons when they fall from the whisk. Add the butter in a thin stream, whipping constantly, until all of the butter is added and the sauce is thickened. Add the lemon juice, hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. The sauce can be held warm (145 degrees) for as much as 2 hours. This side dish is wonderful with Filet Oskar. You'll need to slice enough of each mushroom (1/8-inch thick) to fill a 1/4-cup dry measuring cup. Serve the mushrooms atop a homemade crouton. To make the crouton, toast a piece of your favorite bread and cut it into a round shape.

Sauteed Wild Mushrooms

1 portobello mushroom Crimini mushrooms Shiitake mushrooms Chanterelle or oyster mushrooms 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 teaspoon chopped shallot 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1/4 teaspoon minced anchovy Pinch of salt Pinch of white pepper 1 teaspoon Pernod (French liqueur) Remove the stem from the portobello mushroom. Using a spoon, gently scrape the dark fronds from underneath the cap. Gently clean the other mushrooms. Slice the mushrooms 1/8-inch thick (you should have 1/4 cup of each). Place a medium saute pan over medium heat. Melt the butter in the pan. Add the garlic, shallot, parsley and anchovy. Saute for about 1 minute. Add the sliced mushrooms and saute for 3 more minutes (see photo). Add the salt and white pepper; saute for 30 seconds. Pour in the Pernod and saute for another 30 seconds. Additional Information:

Details

Morton's of Chicago Morton's of Chicago is open from 5 to 11 p.m. seven days a week, except on Sundays, when it closes at 10 p.m. It is at 625 Liberty Ave., Downtown. (412) 261-7141. Cooking Class Send requests for your favorite restaurant recipes to Cooking Class, Pittsburgh Tribune-Review, D.L. Clark Building, 503 Martindale St., Pittsburgh, PA 15212. Fax: (412) 320-7966. Or e-mail tribliving@tribweb.com .

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