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New tastes, old-fashioned ambiance

Karin Welzel
| Sunday, April 23, 2006 4:00 a.m.
The Cefalo family deliberately overlooked the Strip District, South Side and Downtown when they searched for a site for their restaurant-nightclub. "A little bit away from the city and the college crowds," says Kathleen Cefalo, co-owner with her husband, Leonard; son, Dean; and daughter, Dana. "We are trying to draw a clientele that appreciates good food and a nice ambiance that embraces the era." Step into Cefalo's Restaurant & Nightclub for a time-machine trip to earlier, softer times, when Big Band sounds ruled the airwaves, when Frankie and the Rat Pack crooned and jested to hundreds tableside in Vegas, and when the Beatles changed the face of rock 'n' roll. The first thing you notice when you enter the bar area at Cefalo's is the huge stage, set up, lit and ready for any number of performances ranging from "gangster jazz" to "variety dance" to stand-up comedy. A Beatles tribute band, Get Back, often visits. The venue has its own house band, Cefalo's Big Night Band, featuring Carnegie Mellon University music graduate Dana Cefalo on vocals with numbers such as "In The Mood," "I Get a Kick Out of You," "Fly Me To the Moon" and "Mack the Knife." Much of the furniture is homemade by Leonard and Dean, who also designed the venue, a former Methodist church replete with stained-glass windows. "Art deco was a big influence on how we designed the place," says Dean. Adds his father, "We tried to use many original materials from the church, so they would match, but without making the place look like a church." OK, enough about singing, swaying and decorating. The upscale American menu -- continental, if you prefer, because of international touches, says Dean -- reflects his personal tastes as interpreted by two accomplished local chefs. The main dining room is separate from the entertainment lounge and bar; a private dining room is under construction in another large room. "Dean is a gourmet cook, but he doesn't do the cooking," says his mother. That duty belongs to executive chef Scott Farr, a graduate of Pennsylvania Culinary Institute and formerly of Hyeholde restaurant, and sous chef Vincent Smith, who received his cooking credentials from Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., and formerly headed the kitchen at Pandolfo's Cafe, in Collier. "Vinnie and I put our heads together based on Dean's guidelines to come up with the recipes," says Farr. The food reflects an assortment of cuisines paired with a "fun flair," as described by Dean -- from Citrus Glazed Scallops or Bruschetta as appetizers, to Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes or Porterhouse Steak as main courses. Pastas range from Roasted Duck Gnocchi to the popular Chicken Cacciatore, or diners have a choice of Pecan Salmon, Roasted Pork Tenderloin or Cast Iron Roasted Loin of Lamb as stars of their plates. While main courses are individually plated, vegetables and starches -- ordered a la carte -- are served on the side, family-style, including grilled asparagus, wild mushrooms with pancetta, lobster mashed potatoes, risotto pancakes and creamed spinach. "We want the food to be comfortable, sociable," Dean says. Cefalo's Restaurant & Nightclub, 428 Washington Ave., Carnegie, is open for lunch from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays and for dinner from 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Appetizers are served until midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Details: 412-276-6600 or www.clubcefalo.com . Grilled Ahi Tuna with Pickled Ginger Slaw, Soy Reduction and Wasabi Aioli Dean Cefalo, co-owner of Cefalo's Restaurant & Nightclub in Carnegie, says this delectable dish will be added to the menu soon. The current menu features Coconut Crusted Ahi Tuna; executive chef Scott Farr pan-sears the fish and finishes it with wasabi cream sauce and a ginger-soy reduction. For the Pickled Ginger Slaw:

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1/2 head radicchio, julienned or shredded 1/4 head green cabbage, julienned or shredded 2 tablespoons chopped pickled ginger 1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 8 fresh chives, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the Wasabi Aioli:

1 cup mayonnaise, more if desired 1 1/2 tablespoons wasabi powder or paste Juice of 1/2 lemon

For the Soy Reduction:

1 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons honey

For the Grilled Ahi Tuna:

Vegetable oil 1 piece (8 ounces) sashimi-grade ahi tuna Salt and fresh cracked black pepper, to taste Chive stems, for garnish

To make the slaw: Combine the vinegar and sugar in a medium-size bowl. Mix until the sugar is dissolved. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well ( see Photo A ). Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. To make the aioli: Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, the wasabi powder and the lemon juice in a mixing bowl until smooth. More mayonnaise can be added to reduce the "heat" from the wasabi. Refrigerate. To make the reduction: Place the soy sauce in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat and reduce it by half. Remove the pan from the heat and add the honey. Stir occasionally until cool. To make the tuna: Light a grill and heat to high. Dredge the tuna in vegetable oil -- to prevent it from sticking -- and season with salt and pepper. Grill to desired doneness. It's best served medium-rare ( Photo B ). To plate: Make a pool of the soy reduction in the middle of a dinner plate. Slice the tuna on the diagonal to make 2 triangles. Stand the triangles next to each other, pointed side up, on the soy reduction. Place the slaw to one side. Using a plastic condiment bottle, place 3 dabs of the wasabi aioli on the other side of the tuna, away from the slaw ( Photo C ). Slice six 1-inch pieces of chives and arrange 2 each in a cross over each dab of wasabi aioli (Photo D ). Garnish the tuna with whole stems. If you can, use chives just about to flower or in bloom. Makes 1 serving.


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