Spaghetti and meatballs, chicken and noodles, stuffed manicotti — that's the comfort food of winter. It fills you up, sticks to your ribs and lulls you into a warm sleepiness when the cold wind is whipping. But pasta takes on a whole new taste and look during the warm months. It sheds its heaviness and teams with healthful, light but flavorful ingredients — particularly fresh vegetables, herbs and seafood — to go down easy and keep the kitchen cool. Here are some simple pasta recipes you can serve as a one-dish meal or a first course for guests.

Herbed Seafood Pasta

Jarlsberg cheese, a mild Norwegian cheese similar in texture to Swiss, adds texture and tang to the following two recipes, from the Jarlsberg cheese makers. For the dressing : 2 tablespoons fresh dill, minced 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced 2 tablespoons fresh chives, minced 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil For the pasta : 1/2 pound tricolor rotini or spiral pasta, uncooked 1 head fennel, sliced into thin strips 2 ribs celery, chopped 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 1 pound crabmeat or surimi, cut in small chunks 2 cups (8 ounces) Jarlsberg cheese, shredded To make the dressing : In a large bowl, mix the dill, parsley, chives, mustard and oil. Cook the pasta in boiling water according to package instructions. About 3 minutes before it is cooked to the al dente stage, add the fennel, celery and carrots. Drain and transfer the pasta mixture to the bowl with the dressing. Add the crabmeat and toss. Add the shredded cheese and toss again. Serve immediately or rewarm in microwave, loosely covered. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Confetti Pasta Salad

1 (6 1/2-ounce) jar marinated artichoke hearts, undrained 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 2 rounded tablespoons country-style prepared mustard 1/3 cup sundried tomatoes, chopped 3 cups tricolor pasta, cooked and cooled 1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) Jarlsberg cheese, regular or the light version, shredded 1 1/2 cups celery root, julienne cut (matchstick-style) 1 1/2 cups green or sweet yellow pepper, chopped In a large salad bowl, mix the artichoke hearts, vinegar, mustard and tomatoes. Add the pasta, cheese, celery root and sweet pepper; toss well and serve at room temperature. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Peanut Noodles with Chicken

A favorite ingredient often can be used in many ways. In this dish from Health magazine, peanut butter perks up the sauce in this quick summer recipe. Combined with gingerroot and hoisin sauce, it offers an elegant but nutritious flavor option. The recipe is by Marge Perry. 8 ounces fettuccine, uncooked 2 cups roasted chicken breast meat, chopped (about 2 breasts) 2 cups sweet red peppers, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh gingerroot, minced 2/3 cup water 1/3 cup natural-style peanut butter 1/3 cup hoisin sauce 1 tablespoon seasoned rice wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon Asian chile sauce 1/2 cup green onions, chopped 1/2 cup fresh cilantro, chopped Cook the pasta according to package directions, omitting salt and fat. Combine the chicken and sweet peppers in a colander. Drain the pasta over the chicken mixture and let stand for 5 minutes. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat; add the garlic and gingerroot. Cook for 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add the water, peanut butter, hoisin sauce, vinegar and chile sauce. Cook for 1 minute or until thoroughly heated, stirring with a whisk. Combine the pasta mixture and sauce in a large bowl; toss to coat. Stir in the onions and cilantro. Makes 4 servings.

Fettuccine Alfredo

Fettuccine Alfredo appears on many menus in Rome, but Alfredo di Lelio, a Roman restaurateur in the 1920s, is credited with creating it. It is said to have become famous when Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford visited Rome in 1927, dined regularly in di Lelio's restaurant and loved the dish. The recipe made today is somewhat different from the original. It used to be richly sauced with triple the butter and the finest Parmesan cheese. Because we don't have the same kind of butter as in the past, the fettuccine is tossed with whipping cream as well as butter and Parmesan cheese. The recipe can easily be doubled for a party. Salt 1 pound fettuccine, uncooked 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, cut into pieces 3/4 cup whipping cream 3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated White pepper, to taste Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, chopped (optional, for garnish) Green onions, chopped (optional, for garnish) Fill a large pan or Dutch oven with water, and add salt to taste. Cover and bring to a boil. Add the pasta and cook for about 7 minutes, until al dente. Meanwhile, in a saute pan large enough for the pasta, melt the butter over low heat. Add the cream and heat through. Add the cheese and stir until melted. Remove from the heat. Drain the pasta and quickly add it to the saute pan. Stir gently to coat the pasta with the sauce. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Garnish with parsley and green onions, if desired. Serve immediately. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Penne with Lemon, Broccoli and Sweet Pepper

This recipe takes just a few minutes to make and is a perfect summer supper with a little salad, some crusty bread and a glass of white wine. 1 lemon, cut into eighths and seeded 1 pound penne pasta, uncooked 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup water 3 tablespoons butter 2 cups broccoli florets 1 sweet red pepper, diced Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, to taste Mince the whole lemon (including the rind) in a food processor or blender. Set aside. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water for about 7 minutes, until al dente. While the pasta is cooking, in a saucepan, warm the oil, garlic and crushed red pepper over medium heat for 1 minute. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, reserved minced lemon, lemon juice and water, and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, until the liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup. Stir in the butter, broccoli and sweet pepper, and saute for about 1 minute or until the broccoli turns bright green. Drain the pasta and place it in a pasta dish. Pour the sauce over the top and toss. Serve with the cheese. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Salmon and Leek Pasta

This recipe is a foolproof method for anyone timid about cooking fish. It calls for a simple but classic French sauce-making technique. You can make this using leftover grilled salmon. Just break up the cooked salmon and add after the liquids; heat through. Toss a green salad with a vinaigrette, slice some French bread, and in 25 minutes, you have a flavorful, nutritious meal. Serve with chenin blanc wine or iced tea. This recipe was inspired by one in "Sensational Pasta," by Faye Levy (HP Books, 1989). 8 ounces farfalle (bow-tie) pasta 6 tablespoons butter, divided 3 leeks, white part only, rinsed well and thinly sliced 1/3 cup dry white wine 4 ounces mushrooms, sliced 1 bottle (8 ounces) clam juice 1/4 cup milk or half-and-half 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped; or 1 teaspoon dried, crumbled 1/2 teaspoon salt Pepper, freshly ground, to taste 1 pound salmon fillet, skinned and cut into 1/2-inch cubes 3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped Heat a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Meanwhile, melt 4 tablespoons ( 1/4 cup) butter in a large skillet; add the leeks. Cook over low heat for 7 minutes, until tender but not brown. Add the wine; stir and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, clam juice and milk; heat to a boil. Add the thyme, salt and pepper. Gently stir in the salmon. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring, until the salmon is almost cooked through. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water according to package directions; drain. Place in a serving bowl. Toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Pour the sauce over the pasta; gently toss. Adjust the seasonings. Makes 4 servings. The Associated Press, Knight Ridder Newspapers and Los Angeles Times Syndicate contributed to this story.

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