Park Bruges Cafe helps Pittsburgh lay legitimate claim to a leisurely European dining experience

Having returned from France recently, the European dining experience is fresh in my brain.

Lengthy, relaxing meals with bottles of wine and shareable dishes enjoye d al fresco are the things dreams are made of and, thankfully, a reality at Park Bruges Cafe in Highland Park.

The timing could not have worked out better, considering we're in the midst of one of the greatest weather runs Pittsburgh has seen in quite a while. The warm, airy summer evenings have been lending themselves well to outdoor meals. With a little patience and a glass of pre-dinner sangria, we secured one of the three tables situated along the sidewalk just as the sun was gracing us with its beautiful setting rays.

Pittsburgh is no stranger to fusion these days. Park Bruge takes bistro food to the next level by infusing French flare throughout the entire menu. While some items will look familiar — sister restaurant Point Brugge in Point Breeze has some of the same offerings — there are some interesting dishes you'll want to dig into.

Among the tried-and-true options are the moules and frites . Preparation styles vary from location to location, but the quality of the mussels, the absurdly satisfying crispy, crackly baguette for dipping and the buttery, herbed frites remain reason enough to grab a table at either restaurant. Our selection, the Spanish Romesco, an obvious choice, considering the chorizo (I can never say no to chorizo) has a slight spice, thanks to the paprika, and was light enough to serve as the perfect appetizer.

The traditional French flatbread, known as tarte flambee , is another optimal app for sharing. We went the classic route, dressing the crispy crust with caramelized onions, creme fraiche and ham. Each crunchy bite had a taste of the salty ham and the sweet onions and cheese.

To round out the first-course trifecta, we classed it up and shared a bowl of the Bruges take on French onion soup. What made this concoction special was the addition of caramelized apples and fennel, adding a sweet element to an otherwise extremely salty heavy soup.

We washed all of those down with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc from a short, but well-covered, wine list. Sipping while the sun set, we awaited our main courses, which were perfectly paced to allow for digestion and anticipation.

Our lovely waitresses laid three beautifully plated dishes — Bay of Fundy Salmon, Braised Lamb Shank and Smoked Short Ribs — upon the table. After another few patient moments for photographing, we took our first bites.

The salmon was easily my favorite. The fish was cooked to a medium rare and was moist and flaky. The flavors of summer came through with the heirloom tomatoes and the fresh basil and lemon. It was absolutely the perfect choice for a warm summer night.

The two other entrees were equally delightful, although much heavier and richer. The lamb was light in flavor, perfect for someone who is still deciding whether that protein is for them, and paired wonderfully with the apricot and pistachio tabbouleh and cilantro mint chutney.

In contrast to the interesting flavor mix of the lamb, the braised short ribs had a simple, down-home taste. Two large pieces of braised meat were coated in a blueberry chipotle barbecue sauce and served alongside a heaping helping of horseradish white-cheddar grits and collard greens.

While the entrees are generous portions — especially the full-size moules and frites — there are sandwiches, salads and small plates on the menu for folks with a slightly smaller appetite.

Although we had made our way through a good part of the menu, we had to try dessert. Considering we weren't eating our final course until well after 9 p.m., some of the best goodies were sold out. We did get to indulge in a waffle, topped with mango sorbet, coconut and salted caramel.

I recommend getting a table outside if one is available (and worth the wait if one isn't). The dining room can get noisy, as it's rare to see a slow night. The bustling bar will gladly serve you a beverage while you wait.

The French have their simple, leisurely meals down to a T. After a visit to Park Bruges, I can say that Pittsburgh is starting to stake a claim there, too. �

Amanda McFadden is one of the food-savvy ladies of eatPGH.com, who contributes a weekly Dining Out column to Trib Total Media.