Piccolo Forno stays true to a love of Tuscan food and welcoming atmosphere

Piccolo Forno has been a Lawrenceville staple for what seems like forever. In reality, Domenic Branduzzi's Tuscan-style eatery has been on the block for just 10 years.

The popular pizza-and-pasta shop sits on Butler Street and sees a steady stream of patrons pass through its doors. Over the past decade, folks have come seeking a spin on Italian food. They've come seeking dishes prepared with handmade noodles and uncommon proteins. And they've come seeking quality comfort food that is made with love.

Branduzzi, with a little help from his mother, Carla, delivers all that and more.

The always-bustling restaurant greets you with warmth and excitement, as do the hosts and hostesses. With a smile, you're whisked away to your table.

If you were prepared, you brought a bottle (or two) of wine with which to wash down your impending meal.

If you forgot, don't worry. While Piccolo Forno is a BYOB joint, the newly opened, adjoining Grapperia will provide a place to imbibe before you dig in. You can enjoy a cuppa grappa, wine or a beer as an aperitif or a digestif.

Nestled against a backdrop of brick, with the waft of baking bread in the air, you'll begin to feel right at home.

The menu at Piccolo Forno remains true to locality and seasonality, as most good ones are apt to do these days. However, the menu also features some more unusual options not largely found around town. As a nod to Branduzzi's love of and commitment to true Tuscan food, things like rabbit and boar are offered alongside pork and lamb. The finest meats, cheeses and produce are used — and you know it after just one bite.

An order at Piccolo Forno just isn't right if it doesn't begin with some sort of antipasti. One of the house specialties, the Crostini di Polenta, is a testament to the chef's craft. Squares of polenta are baked and topped with various garnishes, each strong in flavor but not overwhelming. Olive tapenade, balsamic grape tomatoes and gorgonzola alternate the slightly crisp squares.

Baked meatballs, a mix of beef and pork, are served piping hot, lightly drizzled in an herb sauce.

Salads, normally dressed the same everywhere you go, take on new life with inventive mixes of ingredients. The Insalata di Farro, for example, combines wheat grain with wild mushrooms, peas, scallions and pistachios. The colorful plate is dressed with basil vinaigrette and topped with ricotta salata.

All of the pasta found on the menu is handmade in-house. A generous offering is available, although the most notable and sought after dish is the now-famous Lasagna Toscana. Layers upon layers of pasta, meat ragu and beschamel sauce meld together with sweet spices, resulting in one of the more extraordinary pasta plates found anywhere in the city.

The same drive for perfection and uniqueness is applied to the remainder of the menu. Salmon and ricotta are found together inside a triangle of dough, topped with asparagus and lemon-tarragon butter. Another unexpected combination, very well-executed.

Similar to a succotash, the vegetable-heavy Cavatelli di Ceci is perfect for any season. It's chock-full of chickpeas, rapini, corn, red peppers and homemade sausage and has a sprinkling of ricotta salata for good measure.

It's not a trip to Piccolo Forno without indulging in one of the wood-fired pizzas. The oven is a rarity in town, which makes the pies even that much more special. You can go standard with a margherita or you can choose to jazz things up a bit with one of the many specialty pizzas.

The generous sizes allow for sharing opportunities. Besides, pizza is always the best side dish. Fresh ingredients like crushed tomatoes, basil, eggplant and artichokes can be paired with spek, tuna, egg and mortadella. Several combinations have been carefully paired, or, if you're feeling brave, you can create your own delightful dish.

For a dessert finish, Carla and team can whip up some mean sweets. Rotating offerings of gelato and sorbet are available, as is traditional tiramisu.

Take your dessert with a cup of coffee or espresso for the full experience, and you'll swear you just dined at the home of your best friend's, neighbor's or grandmother's, with food made with a lot of heart and a lot of love. Saluti! �

Amanda McFadden is one of the food-savvy ladies of eatPGH.com, who contribute a weekly Dining Out column to Trib Total Media.