Pines Tavern serves fine dishes in rustic, historical setting

The brilliantly colored leaves on winding Bakerstown Road in Pine Township lead to a rustic country restaurant that recalls much earlier times in Gibsonia.

The 1914 building has housed a speakeasy, a farm market, a dance hall and a Gulf gas station. In 1978, it became The Pines Tavern restaurant when the property was bought by the Novak family.

Originally a neighborhood dining spot, The Pines Tavern has grown more sophisticated over the years and offers a unique American menu featuring Elysian fields lamb and the restaurant's own herbs, edible flowers, berries and greens grown in gardens right outside.

Owner Michael Novak says that freshness is key to the restaurant's success. "We use local produce as much as possible," he says, guiding visitors through the 100-seat dining areas. "We have our own greenhouse that is used year-round."

According to a brochure that profiles the property over the past nine decades, The Pines Tavern used to be the gathering place for staff members of three estates of Pittsburgh's industrial giants. Oil and gas baron Joseph Trees lived at Treesdale; Pittsburgh's Mayor Edward Babcock owned Vosemary; and Sebastian Mueller and his wife, Sarah Heinz, presided over Eden Hall. The large staffs of the three estates met at what is now the restaurant to eat, drink and dance.

The restaurant still is a popular meeting place. The Pines Tavern does a brisk catering business and is noted for weddings, receptions, showers, business lunches and private parties. The Novak family also owns the North Star Market on Route 8 just past the Route 910 interchange and has weekly cooking classes there.

Executive chef Jason Culp has been at The Pines for 10 years. His approach to cooking is simple and down to earth. Culp was first runner-up for Chef of the Year in 2000 and 2001 in Pittsburgh magazine's annual contest. And The Pines Tavern received the Distinguished Culinary Award from the magazine in 2000.

Culp shared his recipe for Grilled Pork Tenderloin and German-style Sweet Potato Salad, which he suggests to accompany with fresh green beans. It's the kind of meal you'd serve family or guests on a cool autumn Sunday.

The pork, drizzled with an apple cider glaze, is so tender and juicy that you'll slow down to savor every bite. The sweet potato salad is a delicious surprise, particularly to one who isn't a fan of sweet potatoes, and it complements the pork beautifully.

The best thing about these recipes is that it isn't necessary to visit a specialty store to buy the ingredients. Use the herbs and spices in your spice cabinet.

Another plus: Guests will think you went to a lot of trouble to prepare this meal. Frei Brothers Chardonnay is the suggested wine selection.

Culp uses Soergel's apple cider for the glaze.

• 2 pork tenderloins
• 3 cups water
• 1 cup soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 1 tablespoon dry mustard
• 2 tablespoons mixed fresh herbs, such as thyme, tarragon, parsley, chives and rosemary, finely chopped
• Apple Cider Glaze (recipe follows)

Using a boning knife, remove all fat and silver skin from the pork. Place it in a nonreactive (nonaluminum) container that has a tight lid.

Mix the water, soy sauce, garlic powder, onion powder, dry mustard and herbs in a separate bowl. Pour over the prepared pork, cover the container and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

The next day, heat the grill to medium-high and the oven to 350 degrees.

Grill the pork a total of 4 minutes on each side, turning twice <!-- (see Photo 1) --> . Place the grilled pork onto a cooling rack, then place the rack on a sheet tray and put it in the hot oven for about 15 minutes (for medium-well doneness).

Meanwhile, prepare the Apple Cider Glaze.

Once the pork is done (an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the center of the pork should read at least 165 degrees), remove it from the oven and pour the Apple Cider Glaze over the top. Return the pork to the oven for 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the meat rest for 4 minutes, then slice and serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

• 2 cups fresh apple cider
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch

Combine the apple cider, brown sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice in a small saucepan or skillet <!-- ( Photo 2 ) --> and cook until reduced by half.

In a separate bowl, combine the water and cornstarch; mix well. When the cider mixture has reduced, whisk in the cornstarch mixture and bring to a boil. Immediately remove from the heat and pour over the cooked pork.

• 2 cups sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed or diced ( 1/2-inch pieces)
• 4 cups water, plus 2 tablespoons
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cups smoked sausage, diced
• 1/4 cup white onion, diced
• 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 3 tablespoons prepared whole-grain mustard
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Salt, to taste
• Pepper, to taste

Place the potatoes in a medium pot, cover with 4 cups water and cook until tender. Drain and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add the sausage and onion, and sauté until the onion is translucent.

Add the vinegar, honey, mustard and sugar <!-- ( Photo 3 ) --> . Reduce by one-third (this should take about 10 minutes).

Meanwhile, in a small mixing bowl, combine the cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water. When the vinegar is reduced, whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Bring to a boil, immediately remove from the heat, add the potatoes and mix well. Season with salt and pepper; serve hot.

Makes 4 servings.

Editor's note : In last week's column, which featured Donovan's restaurant in the South Hills, the recipe for Donovan's Coriander-Encrusted Mahi Mahi indicated to use uncooked couscous to prepare the vegetable couscous. The correct amount is 1 cup cooked couscous.