Polymath Park adds fine dining with new Tree Tops restaurant
Tree Tops Restaurant opened in Polymath Park resort in November. The unusual mountain resort, perched on a wooded ridge in the Laurel Highlands near the village of Acme, began life as a celebration of architecture and nature. Frank Lloyd Wright's Duncan House and a pair of homes designed by Wright apprentice Peter Berndtson were the drawing cards at the 125-acre resort.
With the addition of Tree Tops, visitors can add fine dining to their itinerary.
Executive chef Mark Henry, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, has worked in kitchens from Manhattan to Pittsburgh during the past three decades. He was in on Tree Tops almost from the beginning. He hooked up with resort founder Tom Papinchak, whom he met while catering events at Polymath homes, which draw overnight guests from architecture aficionados around the world. Papinchak was looking for food to compliment the setting. Henry, who originally was a consultant on the plan, gradually became something more. The result -- Tree Tops, a venue that highlights organic foods -- was a highly personal collaboration, a year in the making.
"There is nothing corporate about this. Every detail here comes from my heart or Tom's," Henry says, adding that all food is prepared to order on the premises.
Give yourself plenty of time to get to Tree Tops. The signage is minimal, and it's easy to miss the driveway off Evergreen Drive, especially at night. If you see small signs to the Duncan House, you're on the right track.
Located in a contemporary-style former ski home, the restaurant boasts a sprawling deck off its second-story dining room that is indeed nestled among the treetops. The promise of outside dining there should be a lure in warmer weather.
Inside, the stark walls of the main dining room feature an array of photos and drawings of Wright's masterpieces. The rectangular mahogany trim likewise calls to mind Wright's attention to detail.
The tables, which feature distinctive high-backed, custom-made chairs, are close together. Yet, there is an air of intimacy and warmth reinforced by the free-standing rough stone fireplace in the center of the room.
A private dining area, off the main room, would be ideal for a small gathering or family dinner.
Later this year, the first floor is slated to become a visitors center and wine bar, but for now, it is BYOB at Tree Tops.
On a recent visit, we were treated to a pleasant surprise: A taste of chef Henry's homemade mozzarella was delivered to our table with our menus. The beautiful cheese, a treat even by craft standards, should earn a place on the menu sometime soon.
We were told the Pennsylvania Mushrooms Vol e Vent ($7.50) is becoming a favorite, and it's easy to see why. Served in a warm pastry shell swimming in an herbed cream, these succulent mushrooms are, indeed, woodland gems. Fritto Misto ($10.50) marries an array of seafood including diver's scallops, shrimp and lobster in a crispy tempura batter and adds a grace note of creamy pesto. And this might be one of the few venues in the deep woods where the appetizer offerings include Classic Oysters Rockefeller ($9). Henry adds the suggestion of spice to his with a touch of chile pepper. Beef lovers might want to sample Carpaccio ($8.50), organic beef tenderloin sliced paper thin, crusted with black pepper and served with shaved onion, caper berries, tomato, Pecorino Toscana and truffle oil.
Salad lovers can choose from Panzanella ($6.50), a classic bread salad with greens, croutons, tomatoes and onion served in an Asiago crouton; Wilted Spinach ($6), a spinach salad served with mushrooms, onion and tomatoes in bacon vinaigrette; or the Field Greens or Classic Caesar salads ($6).
The entree selections include a variety of homemade pastas as well as beef, poultry and seafood.
In keeping with his philosophy of highlighting seasonal, local foods, Henry's winter menu includes Venison Osso Bucco ($26.50). His wild-game take on the classic Italian veal dish carries a suggestion of summer with the addition of Sand Hill Port, dried berries and a hint of orange.
Likewise, Chicago Steak in a Hot Pan ($28) is a refreshing take on a classic. The aged organic filet, seared in flaming bourbon butter, was a little less spicy than its namesake. But it more than held its own with the finest steakhouse cuts we've ever sampled. Our server was obviously at her best with the flames. Given the attention this dish received, we wouldn't hesitate to try the Hand-cut Filet Mignon (priced according to weight). Henry will cut it to your specifications and serve it with your choice of gorgonzola aoli, caramelized onions, woodland roasted peppers or a red-wine demiglace.
Although he describes a menu as a work in progress and one subject to seasonal change, we hope Henry keeps the Cedar Plank Salmon ($22.50). Hot-smoked on the premises and marinated with bourbon, honey and a hint of molasses, this pink, sweet fish served with roasted apples soars.
Pasta lovers can indulge in a variety of fresh pastas, including Lobster Ravioli with Pennsylvania Mushrooms ($25), served in a five-herb pesto cream with a red-pepper sauce as an accent; Gnocchi Primavera ($18), gnocchi sauteed with tomato garlic, sweet peppers and julienne vegetables; and Shrimp Scallop and Lobster Fettuccini ($28.50), a generous helping of fresh fettuccini in lobster cream with julienned vegetables. Several chicken dishes and Pecan-crusted Brook Trout ($19.50) round out the entrees.
If dinner was a little heavy, have a cup of coffee served in individual French-press pots and opt for a light dessert, like a scoop of the rich homemade Gelato ($3) or the Blackberry Cabernet Sorbet ($8) served with caramelized fresh fruits.
Dessert lovers will ooh and awe over Chicago-style Cheesecake ($7.50), dipped in chocolate and served with fresh berries; Baba Savarine ($7.50), a sponge cake soaked in Gran Marnier and syrup then filled with berries and served over whipped cream; or the flaming Bananas Foster Crepes ($10).
Additional Information:
Tree Tops
Cuisine: Progressive American
Entree price range: $18-$29
Hours: 4-10 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sundays
Notes: Major credit cards accepted. Reservations suggested. BYOB for now.
Location: 1 Usonian Drive, Acme
Details: 877-833-7829, ext. 3
