Pork recipe satisfies craving for carryout

As a single person with more need for carryout than culinary art, I practically lived on sweet-and-sour dishes from my local takeout.

It's hard to remember what I liked best about sweet-and-sour dishes. Was it the thick coating of breading, fried to a crisp shell, or the candy-sweet sauce that caught my attention• This classic of Chinese-American cooking came to mind recently when one of the last Chinese-American restaurants in my neighborhood closed.

Competition from Thai, Vietnamese and Korean restaurants, as well as those offering authentic Chinese cuisine, proved too much for the restaurant. Preferences have changed, including mine. I look for lighter foods that feature fresh vegetables and herbs. I no longer find crusty batters, cornstarch-thickened sauces and highly salted foods appealing.

Besides, I cook so that I can flavor foods to my taste. That's what I did recently when I had a nostalgic craving for sweet-and-sour pork.

My new version is more sweet and spicy than sour. The recipe substitutes a light dusting of flour for an armored shell of batter so the natural succulence of the pork comes through. The pork is balanced with fresh onion, green pepper, pineapple chunks and shredded carrots. The dish looks beautiful, has an appetizing texture and is healthful. Rice, the usual accompaniment to this style of dish, is studded with almonds and chopped green onions.

One of the great advantages of this version is how quickly it cooks -- about 20 minutes from start to finish. To have the rice and pork completed simultaneously, start the rice first. While it simmers, cook the pork.

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 3/4 pound pork tenderloin, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 yellow onion, peeled and cut into thin wedges
• 1 green pepper, cored, seeded and cut into thin strips
• 1 small hot chile, such as jalapeno, seeded and minced
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root
• 1 (6-ounce) can unsweetened pineapple juice
• 2 cups pineapple chunks in 1-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup shredded carrots
• Pepper, freshly ground, to taste

Heat the oil in large nonstick skillet. Place the pork in a plastic bag. Add the flour and salt and shake to coat the pork. Reserve the remaining flour.

Add the pork cubes to the hot oil and brown on all sides, for about 5 minutes total. Remove the pork and set aside.

Add the yellow onion, green pepper, chile and ginger root to the skillet. Saute for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon seasoned flour remaining from coating the pork. Stir to brown the flour.

Add the pineapple juice and scrape up any browned bits in the skillet. Add the pineapple chunks and pork. Stir well. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes or until the pork is cooked through. If the mixture is too thick, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water. To serve, sprinkle with shredded carrots and season with pepper.

Makes 2 servings.

• 3/4 cup rice
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons sliced almonds
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped scallions (green onions)

Combine the rice, salt and 11/2 cups water in a small pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, for about 18 minutes. Remove the cover, sprinkle with the almonds and green onions and stir to combine. Set aside for 1 minute for flavors to blend.

Makes 2 servings.