Protect your skin, hair from summer's harmful effects

Goodbye, carefree summer days spent lying on the beach, soaking up the rays. Hello, sunless tanner, sunglasses with UVC protection, wide-brim hats and sunscreen.

Welcome to Summer 2003 -- and all its precautions and prescriptions for counteracting sun, water and wind, the three elements that wreak havoc on skin and hair during the warm-weather months.

Health professionals have long warned of excessive exposure to the sun because of its link to malignant melanoma, or skin cancer. But sun worshippers today have even more to worry about, according to David Orentreich, dermatologist for Clinique Laboratories, a leading manufacturer and marketer of prestige skin care, makeup and fragrance products.

Premature aging, local and systemic immune system depression (which causes "fever blisters"), uneven pigmentation, wrinkles, loss of collagen (which leads to sagging), skin growths and telangectasia (broken capillaries) can all be attributed to too many hours spent tanning outdoors, he says -- in addition to the less serious but still worrisome sunburn and sun poisoning.

And don't think that, just because Pittsburgh is no day at the beach when it comes to number of sunny days each year (the average is a depressing 59, according to a city comparison published by Yahoo!), its residents are not susceptible to sun sensitivity.

"In Pittsburgh, we don't get that much sun, but we still get its harmful rays, especially when it's really cloudy," says Pat Johnson, a skin care specialist for The Salon at Saks Fifth Avenue, Downtown.

Catherine Lai, spokeswoman for JASON Natural Cosmetics, sold at GNC stores in the Pittsburgh area, agrees that men and women should start paying more attention to the amount of sun to which they are exposed.

"We tend not to think about the small amounts of sun we get all day," she says. It's also especially important to shield young children from the sun, she says, because some doctors say major long-term sun damage occurs before the age of 18.

While it's important to wear a moisturizer to keep skin from becoming too dry, Johnson says to be careful not to use too much. Overly saturated pores can become clogged and lead to breakouts, she says.

Exfoliating is important all year round to rid the face of dead skin, but it is essential in the summertime, she adds. A basic facial ($60 at Saks) can cleanse and provide an exfoliating mask, manipulation and lymph drainage. It also can help sun-damaged skin, she says.

"I actually move what is stagnant in your face," she says. "It is not only good for you, but it feels wonderful. I highly recommend getting a facial as often as you can afford it and time allows -- at least once a month. Once you start to feel the difference it makes, you'll want to come back."

Orentreich also says the skin needs extra TLC during the summer.

"Remember that, when your skin is under attack from UV rays, your skin will not shed, or turn over, as often as it should," he says. "This could result in dense, clogged skin and even acne at the end of the summer."

He gets more complaints about acne in September than any other time of year, he says. "So I tell my patients to use a non-clogging sunscreen and exfoliate more throughout the summer to avoid this problem."

Clinique offers a new daily face protector for summer, City Block Sheer Shimmer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 15 ($15.50), available in two shades -- Golden and Bronze -- and appropriate for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Also from Clinique is City Block Sheer Tint ($15.50), a dual-purpose sun block and moisturizer.

Clinique's new Water Therapy Body Line includes four products -- Firming Body Smoother ($27.50), Whipped Body Cream ($27.50), Hydrating Body Spray ($27.50) and Foot Smoothing Cream ($17.50) -- which are designed for the entire body but contain the same exfoliants and moisturizers as face cream, spokeswoman Margo Gindi says.

In July, Clinique will introduce its new Pore Minimizer T-Zone Shine Control ($13.50) to offset excess oil in the skin caused by humidity, perspiration and increased temperature.

JASON's Certified Organic sun-protection products include Sunbrellas Family Block SPF 36 ($9.50), a sunscreen made from aloe vera gel, green tea extract, evening primrose and jojoba oils to nourish the skin with vitamins and minerals, Lai says.

Sunbrellas Goodbye Bugs SPF 30 ($9) is a water-resistant sun block containing citronella and limonene to ward off insects, deer ticks and fleas, she says. The antioxidant properties of green tea extract protect skin while sunflower and jojoba oils nourish it.

Also from JASON, Aloe Vera Gel ($3.80) is a daily moisturizer designed to cool and comfort sun-damaged skin.

Bath & Body Works launches its True Blue Spa Tan-Do Attitude Sunless Tanner collection this summer for those who prefer self-tanning to the potential hazards of the sun. Spokesman Michael Mondoro says the Tan-Do Attitude products contain exfoliating fruit acids and conditioning Vitamin E and are available in Face, Body and Leg blends ($12 to $15).

Nikki Pelusi-Blahusch, product education director for Phillip Pelusi Phyto-Life and Hair Salons, attributes the popularity of sunless tanning products to celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Jennifer Aniston, who "really brought the bronzed look back." She says those who use self-tanners can opt for a deeper tan with more frequent use, or "a little glow" by mixing them with their foundation or moisturizer. Pelusi's Sunless Tan Bronzer ($19.95) should be applied after exfoliating and moisturizing the skin, she says.

To counteract the damaging effects of the sun on hair, Pelusi-Blahusch recommends Intense ($34.95), a hydrating treatment for hair from Philip Pelusi. In the same way the sun dries the skin, "the UV rays actually break down the protein in hair and make the fibers weaker," she says.

"That's why sun-exposed hair feels really rough. It also gives a faded look to hair color."

She says many of Pelusi's hair products, including shampoos, conditioners and Intense, contain special sunscreens to protect hair from the sun's damaging effects. Another product she recommends is Sun Potion ($24.95), a weightless hair groom and sun guard.

"Take a bottle of Sun Potion to the beach, and apply it before and after going into the ocean," Pelusi-Blahusch says. "It's loaded with plant proteins that are also natural sunscreens. It feels silky, air dries beautifully and helps control frizz."

JASON hair products for summer include Swimmers & Sports Hair and Scalp Reconditioning Shampoo ($7.90) and Scalp Revitalizing Conditioner ($7.35). Lai says the shampoo is formulated to stop damage to hair and scalp due to chemicals, chlorine, minerals, salt and sweat. The conditioner includes natural sunscreens and uses sea kelp extract to soften, hydrate and smooth hair.

Before buying a sunscreen, men and women should consider two factors, according to David Orentreich, dematologist for Clinique Laboratories: their skin type and level of sun exposure and environment.

"If your sunscreen causes irritation (or) breakouts, or you simply don't like the way it feels on your skin, chances are you won't wear it consistently," he says. "Invest the time in finding a formulation that feels comfortable on your skin, and wear it daily. Broad-spectrum coverage, both UVA and UVB, is recommended for all skin types."

People with oily skin should choose a lighter or oil-free formulation, he says, and those with drier skin might consider using a moisturizer containing an SPF (sun protection factor) instead of sunscreen.

Orentreich says sunscreen with a higher SPF should be used when at the beach, near reflective surfaces such as a swimming pool or at higher altitudes, which are closer to the sun.

Common application mistakes include not applying adequate amounts, not covering all exposed area and not reapplying after perspiring, toweling or swimming.

And don't forget to protect the lips, he says. SPF-containing lip balms and lipsticks are available that deliver emollients and other ingredients to help keep lips moist and comfortable.