Red Star Agave Grille in Greensburg on right track
The Red Star Brewery opened in the renovated 1910 Greensburg Train Station in 1998. The brewpub restaurant under the direction of Ernie Vallozzi and chef Josiah Henry has been evolving ever since.
Last winter, the restaurant in the station that served the old Pennsylvania Railroad closed for several days. It reopened as the Red Star Agave Grille at Red Star Brewery & Grill, featuring a look apropos to the Atchison Topeka & the Santa Fe and a menu featuring a variety of Mexican, Brazilian and Caribbean influences.
"This food craze has swept the country. We wanted to bring this food to the area and offer a more economically friendly menu," Henry said.
Like the menu, the atmosphere has a decidedly eclectic feel.
On a summer evening, a relaxed group lounged in the oversized chairs and in the welcome shade of the plants on the train station portico that has the feel of a comfortable porch.
Walk in through the glass doors and take a gander at the large tanks where the Red Star's choice IPA, Black Pilsner, Red Baja or several other varieties await the next tap.
On a warm evening, the tables under the awning outside provide another nice al-fresco option.
Inside, a selection of bright, larger-than-life circus figures swing from trapezes high overhead in the vaulted ceiling. Closer to the bar, rows of white lights dangle overhead, adding yet another festive element to draw the eye upward.
Don't let the idea of spice scare you. With these Latin-influenced foods, spice does not necessarily mean you'll be fighting a five-alarm fire.
Cheddar Corn ($5.90) may sound like something off the potato chip rack, but it was one of the most interesting appetizers we've tried lately. The chargrilled ear of corn, covered in a tangy melted cotija cheese (a kind of Mexican goat cheese), is served with salsa and a lime wedge. It's not nearly as messy as it sounds and got thumbs up all around our table. After our experience with the cheddar corn, we'd love to try the Fire-roasted Cauliflower ($8.90) coated in the same cotija cheese and horseradish.
Mexican Crab Dip ($8.90), a cheesy, crab concoction with a hint of heat, was a pleasant departure from the less fiery species we've had elsewhere. We were disappointed that the Ceviche ($10.90), a Latin American fish specialty done in lime juice, wasn't available. Chef Henry said the dish has become a favorite that often sells out early.
Like the appetizer offerings, the soups and salads carry forward the Mexican theme. If the Mexican Crab Bisque ($5.90) carries the same spices the dip boasts, we're sure it will become a favorite. And there's always Traditional Tortilla Soup ($5.90) for those in the mood for something lighter.
The Red Star also has its own take on salads with the Chili Caesar Salad ($6.90), adding red chili dressing, Serrano croutons and cotija cheese to the traditional Romaine.
But don't overlook some of the new main dishes. The Brazilian Sabre , skewers of bite-sized grills served on a bed of seasoned, creamed spaghetti squash, comes in three versions. The medium hot option, a combination of skewered Shrimp, Bacon and Crimini mushrooms glazed with Guajilio Honey Mustard ($19.90 for a full serving, $10.50 for half) was a hit at our table. Those with a taste for more fire can try the skewered Beef Tenderloin & Chorizo ($21.50 for full order, $11.50 for half), while skewered Chicken, Poblano and Tomatoes ($17.90 whole, $9.50 half) are offered for those whose tastes are on the mild side of the scale.
Menu standards like chicken and steak also come with a Latin beat. The Chili and Bourbon Glazed New York Strip ($18.90) is served over cheddar and jalapeno grits topped with sweet onions, while the Adobo-roasted Chicken Breast ($16.90) is served with wild mushroom dumplings, roasted corn and pico de gallo. Even the Salmon ($17.90), a longtime Red Star menu favorite, goes south for a lime-grill complete with sweet fried plantains.
Red Star goes with a traditional south-of-the-border approach to tacos, serving them with fresh, soft tortillas white cheddar, red and green salsa and street corn and your choice of meats, vegetables and sauces. The custom approach allows for a choice of fire grilled chicken ($10.90), steak ($14.90) or mahi mahi ($13.90). Add a choice of two vegetables from a list that includes roasted tomatoes, fire grilled onions and grilled peppers and a choice of three sauces and you're set. The tender chicken was a pleasant departure from the over-cooked strips that often accompany such offerings. It married well with the grilled onions and peppers, while the honey chipotle sauce adds a sweet twist to this dish.
While the tacos are traditional, the Red Star throws tradition to the wind when it comes to enchiladas, serving a casserole-style Yucatan Enchilada in a cast iron pan. The options include chicken ($12.90), seafood ($16.90), cheese ($8.90) or steak ($14.90). Our seafood enchilada was brimming with shrimp and red sauce enough for two meals.
We were too full to sample desserts, which range from $5 to $6, but we'd love to go back for Chef Henry's Key Lime Creme Brule or the Chipotle Chocolate Cake .
Additional Information:
Red Star Agave Grille
Cuisine: Nuevo Latin
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-1 p.m. Fridays, noon-11 p.m. Saturdays, 3-9 p.m. Sundays
Entree price range: $8.90-$22.90
Notes: Microbrewery. Major credit cards accepted.
Location: 101 Ehalt St., Greensburg
Details: 724-850-7245 or Web site
