Regent Square eatery putting down roots

Keith Fuller loves math.

"I'm not good at it," he says, "but I like how it goes into everything."

That's one clue to the name of his first restaurant, Root 174. Guessing the other machinations behind it -- that's part of the fun Fuller hopes to spark as he serves dinner in Regent Square.

Tucked among a few other eating venues along Braddock Avenue, the street's alcohol-free side, Root 174 opened in July in Legume's former space. That was two months after Fuller left Six Penn Kitchen, Eat'n Park Hospitality Group's Downtown modern diner.

Fuller is quick to dub the parting as amicable. At Six Penn, the 32-year-old, on-the-job-trained chef gained a reputation for twists on the same-old. His venture into putting his name out there even more -- shall we say it• -- squarely in front of the public will be no less funky, he says.

In recent weeks, the big seller at Root 174 is Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Black Pepper Jam. If that brings out the vegan in you, Fuller's down with that. Menus, which frequently change, will feature entrees for all needs.

"We both see a need for a place for everybody to eat," Fuller says, the 'we' being his partner, Patrick Bollinger, drummer of the Pittsburgh-based punk group Anti-Flag.

His new restaurant is narrow, seating 38 inside and 15 to 20 outside. It is BYOB, with the custom-made, rough-hewn oak bar top a place used for waiting or socializing.

He serves only dinner, for now, tapping the most profitable time for the restaurant business. Fuller says he plans to perhaps pump that up with Sunday brunch or Saturday lunch, even a movie-theme night, mentioning "Amelie" as a possible choice.

He's acutely aware that he's floating this ship in bumpy economic seas.

"I listen to the news every day. I put all my money into this place," he says, but the need to move on, plus support from his friends and co-horts in the industry, pushed him along. He says it's going well so far.

Being cognizant of the modern economic dance, he sets prices at no more than $30, and most are much less. "We're trying to do mid-range dining."

What you'll get for that is "fun food," drawn from Fuller's desire to find "creative ways to make dishes that people haven't seen before," like a BTL Risotto.

They're made in his "from-scratch kitchen." He not only sources food locally, but patronizes the folks who have supported him in his career, Fuller says. They include Steve Salvi of North Huntingdon's artisanal Fede Pasta, and Trevett Hooper of Legume, who offered him the Legume space before anyone else had a crack at it. Hooper has reopened on North Craig Street in Oakland.

Fuller works in Hooper's former kitchen, a space no larger than 10 feet by 25 feet, tidy and shiny, defined by two massive Vulcan stoves. He's added a cast-iron grill and a deep fryer.

"For what we put out and what we do -- (the kitchen) blows my mind," says Fuller, pointing to a stack of black steel pans on a shelf over one of the Vulcans. He churns it out with those babies, which cook like cast iron.

But back to the origins of the restaurant's name, Root 174.

It's "root, as in planting in the ground and giving back," Fuller says. It also means route, as in en route, a reflection of the traditional function of Braddock Avenue.

And the 174• Add the 15218 and 15221 ZIP codes, which Regent Square covers, take the square root and, there you go.

In his logo, the 174 appears under the square root sign, which is illustrated by a plant root. The number should be over the sign, to be correct.

Fuller grins, wryly, and shrugs.

"I've had mathematicians come in and make fun of me," he says.

But you can tell that for him, it's more of that twist, and more of that fun, which he hopes Root 174 will achieve.

Zucchini Linguini Carbonara With Roasted Garlic Tomato Puree

Chef Jeff Fuller of Root 174 mixes his egg and cream with the cornstarch slurry in a plastic squirt bottle that can be shaken. The bottles are cheap, efficient and versatile, he says. With the way they dispense, "you can make anything look nice."

Folks at home without a plastic bottle can spoon in the sauce, as the recipe indicates.

Note: Because parmesan is salty, taste and salt and pepper the dish last. Fuller uses kosher salt and is a fan of Diamond Crystal, which he says coats better than others.

• 2 medium zucchini
• Kosher salt, to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon each cornstarch and water
• 1 egg
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 ounces bacon, diced
• 1 shallot, thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup peas or lima beans
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan Reggiano
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Roasted Garlic Tomato Puree (see recipe )
• Mixed greens

Roasted Garlic Tomato Puree:

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 onion, diced
• 1 rib celery, diced
• 1/4 teaspoon ancho chile powder
• 1 clove garlic, chopped
• 2 cloves roasted garlic
• 1/4 cup dry sherry
• 2 (28-ounce) cans whole plum tomatoes, with liquid
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Sherry vinegar, to taste

To prepare the zucchini: Using a mandoline, julienne the zucchini into long strips into a bowl. Only use the skin and flesh. Do not use the seeds.

Salt heavily with kosher salt. Place in a colander over a bowl or sink and allow to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Rinse the zucchini thoroughly under the running water to remove salt. Keep washing and keep tasting -- two or three rinses -- until the salt is gone. Pat it dry with paper towels. Set it aside.

In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch and water to make a slurry. Mix thoroughly.

In another bowl, mix the egg and cream. Add the cornstarch slurry and mix it until incorporated. Set it aside.

Place a medium-size saute pan over medium heat. Saute the bacon, rendering fat until the bacon is almost crisp.

Add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the zucchini and peas. Add the egg mixture, being sure to stir so that the egg mixture does not scramble separately from the zucchini. It should cook and adhere to the zucchini.

Immediately add the Parmesan Reggiano. Cook until heated through.

Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

Serve immediately over Roasted Garlic Tomato Puree. Top with mixed greens.

Makes 4 servings.

To prepare the Roasted Garlic Tomato Puree: Place the vegetable oil in a large saucepan and heat at medium-high temperature. Add the onion, celery and ancho chile powder and cook until the onions are wilted and translucent.

Add the raw and roasted garlic, and cook until fragrant. Deglaze the pan with sherry. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half.

Add the tomatoes, tomato paste and honey and cook it for 5 minutes. Add the heavy cream and simmer gently for 1 hour. Puree and season with salt and pepper. Adjust the acidity with sherry vinegar, to taste.

Let us know

Have a restaurant and chef you'd like to see featured• Contact Margi Shrum at 412-320-7920 or mshrum@tribweb.com .

Root 174

Cuisine: Modern American.

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays- Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Notes: BYOB, $5 corkage fee per bottle of wine or six-pack of beer. Pure-cane sugar beverages. With proof of address, customers in 15218 or 15221 ZIP codes get a 10-percent discount Tuesdays-Thursdays. If you are seated no later than 8 p.m. on those days, you get an additional 5 percent off. Offer good for customer and one guest. American Express, Visa, Mastercard, Discover. From-scratch, locally sourced kitchen. Vegan and vegetarian entrees offered.

Entree price range: $15-$28

Address: 1113 S. Braddock Ave., Regent Square

Details: 412-243-4348