Restaurants offer slice of history on the side
You gotta wonder if the ghost of Samuel Adams would pilfer a Samuel Adams beer in a pewter mug if he'd ever make a stop at the Jean Bonnet Tavern in historically drenched Bedford.
It's possible.
After all, the 242-year-old tavern -- just one of many western Pennsylvania venues where one can dine with the ethereal spirits of long ago -- is rumored to be haunted.
Of course, the real Samuel Adams never hoisted a few here, though he was a regular tavern-goer on the streets of Boston. The son of a master brewer, Adams was much more interested in stirring the revolution than brewing the hop. It was his idea to dump all that tea into the harbor on Dec. 16, 1773.
Today, the people in the Tuesday Night Mug Club at the Jean Bonnet can fill their pewter vessels with Sam's beer in the second-floor bar, perhaps unaware of the revolutionary plotting that also took place in the tavern below 210 years ago.
In 1794, local farmers gathered at the tavern to express their disgust with and plot a response to the new one-cent federal levy on grain, becoming part of what is commonly known as the Whiskey Rebellion.
The issue forced President George Washington to prove the young nation was serious about its ability to govern its own people, and he responded with the fierce discipline of a concerned father.
In fact, he became the only commander-in-chief to personally lead troops to the front when he left Philadelphia with 12,000 men bound for Bedford.
Some soldiers were housed in the Jean Bonnet. Washington slept in the Espy house in downtown Bedford, which still stands. It was chosen for him because it was regarded as the nicest house in town and, thus, the best one fit for a president.
When his troops continued the journey west to crush the rebellion in the fields of western Pennsylvania, especially within the borders of Washington County, the president returned to Philadelphia.
"You have to love the history," said Melissa Jacobs, who, along with her husband, Shannon, owns and operates the tavern. "I still walk around here every day thinking what it would be like to go back to those times for just a couple of days."
Diners enter through a rough-hewn door and are immediately welcomed by the crackle of a fireplace, inviting guests to mingle with the wispy ghosts of history oozing from the original fieldstone walls and axe marks on thick chestnut beams.
Close your eyes and it's easy to imagine the swirl of revolutionary life unfurling at this critical juncture of routes 30 and 31 just west of Bedford. Indeed, colonial history here seems to melt slowly over diners, as rich and thick as the provolone cheese layered atop a hearty bowl of succulent French onion soup.
The Jean Bonnet is believed to have been built around 1762 by Robert Callender. An Indian trader and, later, scout for Washington, Callender also operated the property as a commissary for troop supplies. He sold the land to Jean Bonnet in 1779.
Today, the third floor houses bed-and-breakfast guests. The restaurant in the original tavern on the basement floor opens at 11 a.m. daily for lunch and dinner, with representative selections of beef, fish, veal, chicken, duck and pasta. Pewter vessels and plates enhance the ambiance.
"We've had visitors from six foreign countries and 42 states, and we still have a blend of patrons who are both local and travelers," Melissa said. "One man told us he was on a flight to Harrisburg from Chicago and the man seated next to him told him that he just had to make the short drive from Harrisburg to Bedford to eat here.
"It's exciting to hear that people find the tavern that exciting."
There are, of course, ghostly stories of close encounters of the colonial kind at the tavern, from those who've heard the wail of a baby supposedly abandoned at its entrance, to the rustling dress of Callender's mistress, still waiting for her man to return and marry her.
Another legend has the lonely spirit of a horse thief pulling up a chair at a table for a drink. Pursued by nearby Shawnee Indians after one of his nefarious deals, he is said to have run into the tavern seeking protection.
However, the locals wanted to preserve the peace with their neighbors, so the fella was instantly convicted by a jury of his peers -- the guys who happened to be in the tavern at the time -- and hanged in the second floor staircase. His body was then dangled in front of the Shawnee to prove he had already been subjected to frontier justice.
There are those who say they still occasionally hear the thump of heavy footsteps descending from the staircase, accompanied by a cool breeze.
(Additional information at www.jeanbonnettavern.com or 814-623-2250)
Some other regional venues where history, food and drink intertwine:
1902 Tavern, Market Square, Pittsburgh
Known for its excellent selection of choice steaks and prime rib, the restaurant owned by Jeff Joyce since 1982 boasts one of the earliest liquor licenses ever issued in Pennsylvania.
"We've got an R-8, which means our license was the eighth issued to a restaurant establishment," Joyce said. "The licenses are issued sequentially. There's only a few original licenses active in western Pennsylvania. Most of them were issued out east."
The LCB was created in 1933 after Prohibition was repealed, and states were given the right to control the sale of alcohol. Licenses are issued once; new owners maintain that license but are assigned an individual "liquor identification number" by the LCB.
The first license ever issued is now held by the Commerce Restaurant Corp., which operates a facility on Market Street in Philadelphia. The fourth license is parked at Dunning's Grill on South Braddock Avenue in Regent Square. The fifth license is held by Maxie's Place on Brownsville Road in Pittsburgh.
The building which now houses the 1902 Tavern opened as a restaurant at the turn of the last century, and while Joyce needed to renovate the interior, there are more than a few remnants of the days gone by, from the tin ceiling, to ceramic tile, to touches of mahogany.
Patrons rest their feet on the traditional brass rail. "Some people have more of an interest in the architecture, but a lot of people certainly have a sense of appreciation for it," Joyce said.
The 1902 Tavern is open for lunch and dinner and offers a full bar and menu. ( www.1902-tavern.com ; 412-471-1902)
The Summit Inn Resort, Farmington, Fayette County
Truman, Edison, Harding, Vanderbilt, Morgan, Ford. They all found their way to the National Road (Route 40), and this was a favorite place to eat and sleep.
"We draw a lot of people from Ohio and the D.C. area," says Randall Harris, whose wife, Karen, is a member of the family which has owned the inn since 1963. "To some extent, though, we may still be a secret to people who live closer. I remember growing up around Stahlstown that I had heard of the Summit, but it wasn't a place you'd pass on the way anywhere.
"I soon realized it was a very nice little trip from anywhere.
"There's something quite special about sitting outside on the veranda with excellent food and drink, and having a 70-mile view from the top of the Chestnut Ridge."
Historical figures have been associated with the Summit ever since it was first built by some of Uniontown's wealthiest residents in 1907. Now a full-scale resort, the Summit's rich legacy is captured in the furniture, documents and photos that decorate the lobby and hallways.
The original hotel register on display dates back to 1917, when Ford and Edison brought the American Science Wizards to the Summit to race down the mountain.
"You can call for reservations or just take a chance, but when the weather's nice, being atop the mountain offers a beautiful view," Harris says. ( www.summitinnresort.com ; 724-438-8594)
The Century Inn, Scenery Hill, Washington County
Thomas Jefferson loved his peanut soup; Lafayette, his native French onion gratinee. And you can sample both in the former Hill's Tavern, which has been in continuous operation since 1794 when Stephen Hill opened one of the first "taverns" on the National Road (Route 40).
"We do have some fun with the history," said Megin Harrington, who presides over the restaurant and lodge operation, which features dining rooms garnished with some of that same history. "Our menu includes many dishes that reflect the historic menus and palates of pioneering forefathers."
Indeed, this is the home of the Bradford Sampler, Neville's Duet, General Braddock Salad and Duck Brackenridge.
"There's so much history available in this area," Harrington said. "We draw from that and from the French influence in our menus. We also have a lot of artifacts and pieces around. I think the people who choose to lodge here are probably drawn by the history.
"The people who dine here are probably drawn by the food and the atmosphere, and the history is something they appreciate in the course of their visit."
The Century, like the Summit and Jean Bonnet, is particularly busy during the fall when leaves take on fiery hues. ( www.centuryinn.com ; 724-945-6600)
PJ Brown's Restaurant & Cafe, Saltsburg, Indiana County
Ed Peffer and Joyce Barbieri were theater folk working in New York City when it appeared as if Ed's family might not continue to operate this restaurant, which two generations sustained since the 1930s.
"We didn't expect to stay," Barbieri says of a trip home in 1979. "But we didn't want to see the restaurant close." They've been here ever since. The restaurant is located in a former railroad hotel and while its exact construction date is unknown, Barbieri said they can document it back to 1876, when the railroad was in its heyday. Lodging is still available and more renovation is planned.
Today, diners are surrounded by antiques, and vintage movie and theater posters. "We're both big fans of those old movies," Barbieri said. A corner table is labeled "Dining With Bogart," which features a wall mural depicting a scene from Casablanca.
The extensive menu features the specialty cuisine of Northern Italy and French continental but there are selections -- and wine -- for every taste. Peffer is the chef, and all of the soups, salad dressings and desserts are homemade daily.
"We draw customers from all around, but I think we're still sort of a secret tucked away here," Barbieri says. "Our regular customers joke that they don't want to tell anyone about how great this place is, but we keep telling them we'd rather they told everyone." She can often identify first-time diners because "we're the kind of place where the food is great, the setting is casual and you can still get up and wander around looking at all the stuff on the walls." ( www.home.earthlink.net/~pjbrowns/ ; 724-639-3408)
The Ligonier Tavern, Ligonier
Originally a first-of-its-kind residence in a bucolic and historic pleasantville, the home evolved into a restaurant and remains a spiffy and colorful venue for lunch, dinner or drinks. In 1895, Ligonier Mayor William J. Potts built this Victorian structure, reputedly the first home in the borough with indoor plumbing.
In 1927, the Calderelli family purchased the home and turned it into the Lincoln Hotel and Restaurant, catering mostly to city folk seeking a weekend escape in the serene country at the foot of the mountains. The Krieger family bought the operation in 1976, adding a screened-in porch for summer dining and expanding the menu.
Today, it is owned by Heidi and Peter McKay, who purchased it in 1982, and further expanded serving space to accommodate themed banquet rooms which feature a Victorian-era touch. Patrons might also choose to eat outside on the second story veranda.
"I worked in a beer distributorship at the time," said Peter McKay. "Now, we both cook."
The menu is full of homemade recipes, from sandwiches to appetizers and dinner entrees.
"We're in a historic building in a historic town," McKay said, "but we've established a pretty lively ambiance for our customers. I think people know the food is quality and the atmosphere is fun." ( www.ligoniertavern.com ; 724-238-4831)
