Review: Attention to detail elevates Back Porch Restaurant in Lower Speers
Nestled in a manicured yard surrounded by towering trees -- including a massive 200-plus-year-old sycamore -- the Back Porch Restaurant in Lower Speers is definitely a family affair.
And diners are the lucky ones here.
They benefit from the skills two generations of the Pappalardo family have honed over the past 33 years at this elegant eatery tucked into the historic Henry Speers homestead along the Monongahela River in Washington County.
Executive chef Joe Pappalardo Jr. ("I'm not really a junior, but it's easier this way," he says) began working as a waiter and bartender when his parents, Joe and Sally, opened their restaurant in 1975.
Their Valentine's Day opening night marked the completion of five years of renovation work on the 1806 ferry master's three-story brick manse. The house that had been handed down in the Speers family for several generations was in need of loving attention when the Pappalardos rescued the abandoned structure in 1970.
"On our opening night, we had a big crowd. Dad was pleased, but he didn't have any idea it was Valentine's Day," says Joe Jr., who went on to receive a degree in food service management from Indiana University of Pennsylvania.
While Joe Jr. presides in the kitchen, his sister, Patty, and her husband, Greg Keller, Back Porch managers, greet guests and oversee operations in the front of the house. Over the years, the family enterprise has expanded. Other siblings operate the Speer Street Grille, a waterfront bistro across the street from the Back Porch, Two Fine Caterers and a bakery that provides the fabulous house desserts at the Back Porch.
Although Joe and Sally Pappalardo are semi-retired, they're still involved.
"Dad still comes in to check out the book and critique us, and Mom will be here Friday and Saturday," Joe Jr. says.
The restaurant, located 30 minutes from Pittsburgh, Washington and Greensburg, draws from a wide radius. There have been several expansions to meet its growing fan base, Greg Keller says. But the additions blend in seamlessly with the original building.
It's worth noting the attention to detail at the Back Porch. Like a fine old clock, the gears turn smoothly in the elegant old manse.
The wait staff is attentive and knowledgeable. No glass or cup stays empty long, and, if the wine list -- which carries a nice cross-section of rated wines -- is too intimidating, your server will be glad to help with a suggestion.
We appreciated his help with our selections.
The Artichoke Franchaise ($10.95) -- fresh artichokes marinated then batter-dipped in an egg and parmesan coating and pan fried in olive oil and topped with mozzarella and red peppers -- was amazingly light.
Caps Duxelle ($7.95) was a mushroom lover's fantasy. Stuffed with seasoned breadcrumbs, parmesan and just the right mix of herbs, they disappeared fast as the plate made its way around our table.
Both are featured on the Appetizer Sampler ($28.95) that's made to share among four to six diners. It also includes a sample of flame-broiled shrimp cocktail and Back Porch baby-back ribs.
Ribs ($19.95 for a full rack, $24.95 for a rack and a half) are a Back Porch signature. Joe Jr. says the recipe, handed down from his aunt, has been on the menu since 1975. The dish, baby-back pork ribs marinated in a brown sugar soy rub then cooked over an open flame, is an invitation to get your fingers messy.
Although it's a little less messy, we thought Veal Oscar ($24.95) should be among the dishes that must remain on the menu. The succulent, sweet crab chunks and tender asparagus shoots swimming in a light bearnaise were the perfect complement to a slice of veal done just right.
Crab-Stuffed Shrimp ($23.95) provided another stage for Pappalardo's sauce skills to shine, this time in a sherry-lobster cream sauce -- again, an accompaniment both light and rich that enhanced rather than overpowered the shrimp and crab.
A stuffed chicken breast, loaded with feta cheese and toasted pecans then topped with merlot sauce, was the star of a Mixed Grill ($28.95) special, one of several featured every day. Although the crab cake and filet skewers that rounded out the trio drew no complaints, we agreed the chicken breast should find a place on the menu.
Be sure to sample Back Porch desserts before you go. A Pecan Ball ($5.95), made with the restaurant's homemade vanilla ice cream and glorious chocolate sauce, is a classic. A sky-high Peach Crumble ($5.95), loaded with fresh summer peaches and served with a scope of the same vanilla ice cream, demonstrates the wisdom of having a bakery in the family.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.
Additional Information:
The Back Porch Restaurant
Cuisine : American-Continental eclectic
Hours : Lunch, 11:30 a.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays; dinner, 4-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays
Notes: Reservations recommended. Major credit cards accepted. Select wine list.
Address: 114 Speers St., Lower Speers, Washington County
Details: 724-483-4500
