Make no mistake, it's all about the beef at Coal Hill Steakhouse at the Grandview Saloon.
The multilevel restaurant, tucked into Mt. Washington's restaurant row, feels like a neighborhood eatery. Executive chef Christopher Clark and his brother, sous chef Peter Clark, say they aim to offer a great steak in a casual setting.
We can't argue about the steak. On our visits, the brothers were hitting their target on that count. A pleasant, attentive wait staff was an added attraction.
But we questioned whether they went a little too far on casual, with the addition of a flat-screen TV in a dining room that boasts a mesmerizing million-dollar view of the city. We were assured it's there for special occasions, such as hockey and football playoffs.
It's not Coal Hill's sole nod to Pittsburgh tastes.
Although the Clarks are St. Louis natives who are working to introduce a taste of the Midwest to the Three Rivers region, their appetizers are pure Pittsburgh.
The hot, juicy Fried Mushrooms ($8), encased in a light coating, brought back memories of our favorite drive-in restaurant from decades ago. The fried Battered Zucchini Planks ($8), a perennial local favorite, with red sauce for dipping, elicited a "not bad" from the big guy on my right. And the Stuffed Hot Banana Peppers ($13), bursting with spicy sausage, dripping with flavorful cheese and swimming in red sauce, could have served as dinner for two -- or a lesson for those so inclined to learn that less can be more.
"We found that Pittsburghers love their comfort foods," Christopher Clark says, laughing, when asked about the appetizers.
Every two to three weeks, the brothers, who were back-to-back valedictorians at the Pittsburgh Culinary Institute (classes of 2005 and 2006), tweak their menu to take advantage of fresh seasonal offerings.
Originally, they tried to stick to prime beef. Now they offer a carefully selected array of choice-grade beef as well as some prime.
"We've had some success being able to offer a fine quality of beef that way. People can't afford to pay $50 or $60 for prime," Christopher Clark says.
In addition to their steaks, all entrees include two sides.
Although there was a Caesar salad option, the house salads heaped with roasted red peppers, hearts of palm and artichoke hearts were a favorite at our table. The chunks of warm jalapeno cornbread served with them proved a hot-sweet counter balance to the parmesan salad dressing.
Menu offerings include filet mignon, Delmonico, porterhouse and New York strip steaks, ranging from 8 to 32 ounces. The kitchen will pepper or blacken your steak or add a bourbon glaze upon request.
We liked the hint of bourbon on a mid-size Filet Mignon ($38 for a 12-ounce slab) and had no complaints about the Delmonico ($30 for a 16-ounce cut), served without benefit of any extra seasoning or glaze. Both arrived still sizzling on hot cast-iron platters with Coal Hill's house steak sauce. It might be good, but we couldn't bring ourselves to pour anything over these steaks.
A juicy Artichoke-Asiago Encrusted Sirloin ($19) illustrated what a creative kitchen can do with this oft-overlooked cut of beef. The caramelized, redskin "smashed potatoes" had a bite just this side of German potato salad.
We sampled merlot and sauvignon blanc by the glass from the wine list, but Coal Hill is promoting an expanding list of fresh-fruit mojitos and infused vodkas. They're also available in the bar.
Our only disappointment was the crab cake that arrived with our Cajun Filet Medallions ($30) over black beans and corn. Although it was loaded with crab and light on cake, it had sat under the broiler a little longer than necessary.
Those who aren't in the mood for beef can opt for ribs, lamb or the several seafood and pasta offerings. A colorful plate of Seared Scallops ($28), served over cucumber salad accented with beefsteak tomato slices, hinted at warmer days to come as we gazed out at the cold gray city and imagined returning on a sunny evening to dine on one of the restaurant's two outdoor decks.
A stacked Chocolate Cake ($5.50) with layers of gooey filling sated our chocolate Jones on that day. We also sampled Key Lime Pie ($5.50) and finished the evening with a dark, rich coffee that our server informed us is custom-ground at Leaf and Bean in the Strip District.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.
Additional Information:
Coal Hill Steakhouse
Cuisine: Upscale/down-home
Entree prices: $19-$51
Notes: Reservations only for parties of eight or more, or on holidays. Inquire about booking special events.
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays
Where: 1212 Grandview Ave., Mt. Washington
Details: 412-431-1400
