Rías Baixas region offers world-class wine

There is no better introduction to the enduring spirit, warm soul and world-class white wine terroir of the Rías Baixas region in Galicia, Spain than a visit to Adega Santiago Ruiz. Near a picturesque harbor in the little fishing village of San Miguel de Tabagón, not far from the mouth of the Miño River on the northern border with Portugal, this small winery's humble entrance lies on a quiet, narrow lane lined by well-kept stone houses dating to the 17th century.

On a recent visit, the day was crisp, yet gloriously sunny. Alluring smells wafted from wood burning stoves and occasional seagull cries pierced the clean air. Combined with the sight of fiery red grape vine leaves creeping up the winery's walls, the scene created a palpable sense of timeless serenity.

Rosa Ruiz, daughter of the late founder Santiago Ruiz, welcomes guests to a simple wooden table in the traditional Galician stone-floor kitchen.

Winemaker Luisa Freire presented the current 2004 vintage of the one and only wine, Adega Santiago Ruiz Rías Baixas(pronounced ree-us by-shuss ). Its complex aroma -- with a blend of citrus, apple and pineapple leavened by floral and herbal hints -- is at once reminiscent of delicate German rieslings, bewitching viognier based wines in Condrieu, France and more robust and pungent pinot gris wines from Alsace. Yet, as with all great wines, the 2004 Santiago Ruiz Rías Baixas magically achieves its own distinctive profile.

In the mouth, cascading flavors of tropical fruits, such as pineapple and guava, as well as vibrant citrus and crisp apple, are layered in a lush, creamy texture balanced deftly by refreshing acidity and minerality. The wine's finish is dry without being austere.

Made from a classic Galician blend of 70 percent Albariño, the leading grape in Rías Baixas, plus 20 percent Loureiro and 10 percent Treixadura, the grapes are grown in neat vineyards on gently rising emerald green slopes behind the winery and at other nearby locations. All grapes are hand harvested to ensure gentle handling.

Independent grape growers also contribute significantly to Adega Santiago Ruiz with grapes grown in tiny back and side yard vineyards near practically every little homestead dotting the hillsides. Traditionally, local growers dedicated harvests to their own superb homemade wines for family consumption with Galicia's wonderfully fresh cuisine.

To give the grapes maximum hang time in the sun, many Galicians train their vines with the traditional 7-foot-high pergola trellis system still found at Adega Santiago Ruiz. Air flowing through the pergola trellises also minimizes the risk of fungal diseases constantly lurk in the wet maritime climate in much of the Rías Baixas region. Additionally, regular sea breezes provide a cool climate that extends the growing season to retain vibrant acidity in the grapes.

It is the granite, however, that holds the real key for terroir in all three of Rías Baixas's main regions of O Rasal in the south, the slightly cooler Val do Salnés to the north and the warmer and more mountainous Condado do Tea region further inland along the banks of the Miño River. Lying just below the green landscape, granite gives the grapes the distinctive mineral complexity that places Rías Baixas wines at a world class level.

While only beginning commercialization of his wines at age 70, Santiago Ruiz was the apotheosis of the local tradition of yeoman grape growers and winemaking. His relentless dedication to improved quality -- he was one the first to install temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation tank to preserve the Albariño's grape wonderful freshness and vibrancy -- and promotion earned early global recognition and enthusiasm. Today, the winery is allied with Bodegas Lan, a fine Rioja producer, but Adega Santiago Ruiz's small annual production of only 12,000 cases remains true to the founder's passionate vision.

Building on the best aspects of this tradition, the Rías Baixas Denominación de Origen was created to satisfy growing global demand with consistent, high quality production while also creating a concerted promotional effort for the wines, cuisine and culture.

Thanks to the creation of large cooperatives, such as Mart'n Códax and Condes de Albarei, who spread the significant capital costs of large stainless steel macerators, state of the art bladder presses and temperature controlled fermentation tanks, more than 6,200 independent small grape growers remain, many with highly prized old vines. In addition the number of commercial wineries has surged to 192, and overall commercial production has climbed from 3.15 million liters in 1990 to 14.8 million liters in 2004.

Other privately owned "new wave" producers -- such as Valdamor in Salnés, Terras Gauda and Adegas Valmiñor in O Rosal and Le Val in Condado do Tea -- are successfully balancing high capacity production, excellent quality and experimentation based on fine winemaking from the likes of Emilio Rodriguez Canas and Cristina Mantilla who is the Rías Baixas version of a "flying oenologist" with involvement at four wineries.

Veteran winemaker Ana Quintela at Bueno's Pazo de Señoráns located just outside the regional capital of Pontevedra currently makes an excellent classic 100 percent Albariño with lovely, crisp complexity.

She also made the jaw-dropping beauty, 2001 Pazo de Señoráns Selección de Añada , a limited production of only 18,000 bottles from grapes in a single vineyard. The wine spent 38 months on the lees in stainless steel tank to acquire amazing honeysuckle aromas and creamy complexity without losing one iota of freshness. Retailing at around $30 nationally, it is a wine to seek out.

The Rías Baixas wines are still a great bargain. Try the following available in Pennsylvania: