One of my favorite bike rides is the paved 9.6-mile trail at Presque Isle State Park near Erie. Designated as a National Recreation Trail, the course begins at the entrance to the park and gently loops along the shore of Presque Isle Bay. There is plenty of parking just inside the western end of the park near the beginning of the trail.
From the trail, the views of the water are breathtaking. On a warm sunny day the blue water is dotted with sailboats, with the city of Erie in the background. If you take your time and a pair of binoculars, you can find a variety of waterfowl resting on the quiet protected waters. Actually, the natural history attractions along this trail often distract me from keeping an eye on the road and on other bikers and walkers.
I should mention that the trail is officially called a multipurpose trail since it is wide enough to accommodate a potpourri of users. Along with bikes are walkers, in-line skaters, families with strollers and almost every other human-powered wheeled vehicle invented. In the winter a portion of the path is cleared, but much of it is unplowed, making it a great place to cross-country ski.
Wetlands are an abundant habitat at Presque Isle. These watery settings are great places to find unusual plants and are also good for bird-watching. Just before the park office is the Lily Pond, which is, as the name suggests, shingled with the common white waterlily. Pull your bike off to the side, and take some time searching the edges of the pond with your binoculars; you may find some avian visitors or other wildlife.
Presque Isle is rated as one of the premier bird-watching spots in the United States. More than 320 species of birds have been recorded at the park. The variety of habitats of the area provide a perfect stopping place for birds to feed and rest after they have crossed Lake Erie. In September, the end of the shorebird migration and the peak of the songbird flight are taking place, and it's not uncommon to spot more than 100 species in a day.
After the lily pond the trail continues behind the park office. If you would like to have a map of your journey, or a bird checklist, stop here and pick them up at the front entrance. Restrooms are available here as well as several other places along the loop.
Farther along the peninsula, the trail goes past Marina Lake. Just past the marina the trail splits to make a loop. Bikers are asked to follow the path to the right along the south side of Long Pond. Again, the combinations of open water, wetlands and interior woodlands make for an abundance of different habitats and the chance to see a diversity of wildlife and plants.
After rounding the northern edge of the bay the trail heads north toward the open waters of Lake Erie. Today, as you bike along this portion of the trail, from Fry's Landing to Budny Beach, there is a considerable portion of land to the east. Much of this is known as Gull Point because of the abundance of gulls that can be found there. If you had traveled the same route 80 years ago you would have had a view of open lake. This area exemplifies the geologic process that is the hallmark of Presque Isle.
The 'Isle' is a 3,200-acre sandy peninsula that arches from its western root with the mainland out into Lake Erie. To the geologist it is a 'flying sandspit' that is thought to be moving slowly eastward with offshore lake currents. Sand is constantly being deposited at the eastern end creating new beaches. Once the sand is deposited, grasses then shrubs, then trees become established and slowly stabilize the new land and the peninsula grows.
Since the early 1800s, there have been efforts to arrest the erosion of sand from the western end of the peninsula. At least four times since then, the neck of Presque Isle was washed away by storms, and the sandspit was truly an island. Today, extensive control measures have halted erosion at the western end, but there is still deposition of sand to the east and new land being formed.
The trail continues past the Budny Beach parking lot. From the eastern end of the lot there are foot trails - you'll have to park the bike for a while - through Gull Point and out to the Gull Point Natural Area where the peninsula is growing. The natural area is a safe haven for migrating and nesting birds and closed to public use from April through November. There is an observation platform at the edge of the area for bird watching.
From Budny Beach the trail passes to the south of the Lake Erie shore beaches. If you want to get your feet wet and enjoy the views of the lake, you can stop almost anyplace along this section and walk out onto the beach. At this time of the year, the peak season is past, and the broad sand beaches are often vacant for you to enjoy in solitude.
Inland, toward the center of the peninsula are a number of hiking trails that lead through woodlands and past wetlands of the ecological reserve. This central portion of the park contains a number of unique habitats that give Presque Isle the distinction of having the greatest number of Pennsylvania's endangered, threatened and rare species of plants of any area of comparable size.
After passing the Presque Isle Lighthouse the trail dips back into the woods for a short stretch, then crosses the peninsula where it rejoins the outbound path and goes back to the park entrance.
One last stop you might want to make is the Stull Interpretive Center near vista parking lot No. 3. This is a good place to learn more about the unique ecological features of Presque Isle and the diversity of its flora and fauna.
Whether you bike, skate, unicycle, push a stroller, walk or just stroll the Presque Isle multipurpose trail, I'm sure you'll come away with a special appreciation for Pennsylvania's only 'seashore.'
Paul g. Wiegman is a writer, educator, photographer and naturalist who works with a number of local and state organizations. Write to him c/o Tribune-Review, 622 Cabin Hill Drive, Greensburg, PA 15601; or e-mail him at pwiegman@ix.netcom.com .
