When she worked for VisitPittsburgh, Beverly Morrow-Jones had a photo on her computer screen of a white sandy beach with azure water that put the sky to shame. A white ribbon of foam rolled into the shore. Green treetops swayed in the breeze.
"People would ask, 'What part of the Caribbean is that?' " she says.
What appeared to be a tropical paradise actually was Lake Michigan. The photo was taken at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a national park about half an hour from Traverse City in the northern part of the state.
Jones says she was skeptical when her husband, Dr. Douglas Jones, first suggested a vacation at his family cottage near Traverse City several years ago.
"It was probably the typical reaction," she says. " 'Vacation⢠In Michigan⢠At a lake⢠You've got to be kidding me.' "
Like many visitors, she was surprised by the scenic beauty and cultural vitality of the Traverse City region.
This "Third Coast" features 180 miles of beaches and more than 10,000 inland lakes, and dramatic sand dunes, wineries, historic lighthouses and tall ships that ply the glacier-gouged bays and inlets. Deep forests beckon to hikers, bikers and nature lovers. Traverse City has the charm of an old college town, with its waterfront shopping district, marinas, museums, art galleries, boutiques and 19th-century architecture. Visitors have a choice of beaches, boating, fishing and kayaking in spring and summer; a wine festival and foliage tours in the fall and skiing and snowmobiling in winter.
"It's a wonderful family vacation," Jones says. "It would be great for couples."
The area was first settled by Ottawa Indians, followed by French fur trappers, missionaries and loggers. Tourists began coming in the 19th century, lured by its cool temperatures and natural splendor. It's chiefly an agricultural area, although tourism runs a close second.
Cherry capital
Traverse City nestles in the crook of Grand Traverse Bay, a deep natural harbor. The bay is split by the Old Mission Peninsula, a 20-mile long finger of land that measures as little as a mile wide in some places. It is home to cherry orchards and at least seven wineries. Northern Michigan is known for producing estimable Rieslings, thanks to the white grapes that thrive in the sandy soil during the summer months.
Traverse City is the cherry capital of America, producing almost 75 percent of the nation's tart cherries. Its spring blossoms rival those in Washington, D.C. The National Cherry Festival, July 7 to 14, coincides with the cherry harvest.
Climb the dunes
The Leelanau Peninsula lies half an hour's drive west of Traverse City. Leelanau County is home to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, where sand dunes tower up to 200 feet over Lake Michigan. The park offers swimming, hiking, boating and camping. A dunes climb almost is mandatory for visitors, who can tackle three trails of varying difficulty. Those who make it to the top are rewarded with a dramatic view of the lake and islands.
Kayak to an uninhabited island. Take a ferry to South Manitou island and tour its historic farmstead, schoolhouse and cemetery. For first-time visitors, a good starting point is the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center, where a 15-minute slideshow airs throughout the day.
Maps offer travelers, especially hikers and bikers, assistance in making plans for visits. It is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day and 8:15 a.m. to 4 p.m. the rest of the year. Passes to Sleeping Dunes National Park are $10 per private vehicle or $5 per person. Passes are good for 7 days.
Details: www.nps.gov/slbe
Lively arts scene
Traverse City wears its history well. Nineteenth-century lumber barons built ornate Victorian homes, many of which still line Sixth Street, which is known as "Silk Stocking Row."
A few minutes west of downtown, the Grand Traverse Commons, a former asylum, is an imposing complex of blond-brick buildings surrounded by scenic parkland that's a favorite for walking, running, skiing and birdwatching. It features shops, wineries and restaurants. The Traverse City Film Festival, hosted by Michigan native Michael Moore, is an annual event. This year it runs July 31 to Aug. 12.
The Traverse City Opera House, built in 1891, is one of six intact Victorian opera houses in Michigan. The restored opera house hosts concerts, dance performances and appearances by noted writers such as Anna Quindlen. The region boasts at least half a dozen additional performance venues, from the Old Town Playhouse Young Company to the Encore Academy of Music. The Music House Museum, in nearby Acme, features vintage and antique musical instruments in a charming Victorian setting.
Thirteen miles south of Traverse City is the Interlochen Center for the Arts. The scenic performing arts boarding school has shaped and nurtured creativity in young musicians, actors, filmmakers, dancers and visual arts.
Culinary destination
Its agriculture industry has made Traverse City a natural culinary destination. Take a self-guided "foodie tour."
Indulge your sweet tooth at Moomer's Homemade Ice Cream or buy a bottle of hand-crafted True North Vodka at Grand Traverse Distilleries. Sip wine at Left Foot Charley, an "Urban Winery," or sample organic bread made in wood-fired ovens at Pleasanton Brick Oven Bakery. There are at least half a dozen candy stores that make up "The Chocolate Trail." They include the Chocolate Den and Chocolate Exotica, both of which make delectable truffles.The Tuscan Bistro serves a lively mix of Northern Italian Cuisine at affordable prices. Visit Silver Swan Homemade Foods & Gifts, where owners, Albanian sisters Petra, Erika and Yola Pepellashi, serve home-cooked food from the Balkans at reasonable prices. The North Peak Brewing Company is housed in an old candy factory and serves fresh salads, burgers, steaks, sandwiches and fish.
The Mackinaw Brewing Co. features a full menu with smoked meats, fresh seafood, salads and sandwiches and micro-brewed beers. Outdoor seating is available in season overlooking the Boardman River. In nearby Suttons Bay is Blackstar Farms, home of the Leelanau Cheese Company. They make aged raclette from the milk of local cows and a variety of French-style cheeses. Visitors can watch the process.
Water, water everywhere
The Traverse City waterways offer kayaking, tubing, boating and just about any other kind of water sport. Charter a fishing boat on Grand Traverse Bay or fish for steelhead and brown trout on the Boardman River, which flows through Traverse City into the bay. You also can bike on the Boardman River trail. Take a sail on the Mantiou, a replica of a 19th-century cargo "coasting" schooner. It's 114 feet long and holds almost 60 passengers. Three two-hour sails are offered from its berth in Traverse City. The Traverse City waterfront is a lively mix of marinas, shops and restaurants.
Details: www.traversecity.com
