R.J. Campolo is used to seeing lots of spots before his eyes - usually about 80 pounds per week. The co-owner of Scoglio Northern Italian Restaurant at The Pointe, North Fayette, says that first-time diners often are surprised at the depth of fish and seafood offered on the menu. "We do an unbelievable amount of Virginia spots," he says. "Probably about 200 total pounds (of fish) a week, 40 of that fresh salmon." The restaurant offers salmon char-grilled with a choice of five sauces - or unsauced, if you please. Campolo and his father, Rich, purchased Scoglio from Gary and Debbie Komoroski last summer. The Komoroskis had built a solid reputation for fine dining over the years, so the Campolos worked out a deal that kept executive chef John Minahan and the staff on the payroll and included the couple's signature recipes. "We really haven't changed a thing," says R.J. Campolo, a graduate of the former International Culinary Academy in Pittsburgh. The 32-year-old is living his life's dream, working side-by-side with Minahan in the kitchen. "I always wanted to own a restaurant." Minahan has worked at Scoglio for a dozen years. He is self-taught - "the school of hard knocks," he jokes - and has 20 years of professional cooking experience, including country clubs in New England and at several Tambellini's restaurants locally. In addition to Virginia spots, favorite fish dishes include jumbo lump crab cakes, stuffed and sauteed shrimp, halibut and swordfish. Patrons can order veal chops, filet mignon, chicken and pork chops, along with an array of pasta and parmigiana dishes. The signature pasta item - Pasta Scoglio - features olive oil, shrimp, sea scallops and fresh basil clam sauce over a choice of ziti, linguine, capellini, farfalle, fettuccine or rigatoni. Six to eight specials are offered for lunch and dinner. The appetizer list features Italian favorites such as crispy fried calamari, baked stuffed banana peppers, fried zucchini and seafood farina -- the last is a crusty round of bread filled with shrimp, scallops, leeks and garlic lemon cream. Signature desserts include strawberry baskets, creme brulee, chocolate "oozi" cakes and chocolate hazelnut crepes. Regular patrons of Scoglio are familiar with the territory, but new customers might have to consult a map to track down the 245-seat establishment. The restaurant is in The Point at North Fayette, adjacent to Robinson Towne Center, tucked into the corner of a strip of retail shops. "You'd think this isn't a great location, but we have good business," says R.J. Campolo. "But a lot of people still don't know we are here yet." Scoglio Northern Italian Restaurant at The Pointe, 300 McHolme Drive, North Fayette, is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; closed Sundays. Details: 412-788-1242. Veal Benedetto Co-owner R.J. Campolo says this dish is one of Scoglio Northern Italian Restaurant's signature items - "and it's probably the best on the menu."

2 medium-size portobello mushroom caps Oive oil Chopped garlic and rosemary, or your favorite herbs and spices 6 ounces veal tenderloin, cut into scallops, more if needed 2 triangular slices Fontina cheese, 1/4-inch thick All-purpose flour Beaten eggs Panko (Japanese bread crumbs) 3 to 4 tablespoons butter, divided 1 to 2 cups sliced button mushrooms Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 to 1/3 cup veal stock or beef broth 1/4 to 1/3 cup heavy whipping cream Fresh basil, for garnish

Cut off the stems of the portobello mushrooms and brush off any dirt. Rinse the mushrooms under gentle cold running water if necessary to remove embedded dirt. Dry thoroughly. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat and add a film of extra-virgin olive oil to coat the bottom. Add the mushroom caps and saute until tender, seasoning with rosemary and garlic, or with your favorite herbs and spices. Let cool, then refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before making the veal rolls. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Overlap the veal scallops on a cutting board and pound them, using the waffle side of a meat mallet, to make two flat pieces of meat. Place a mushroom cap in the middle of the veal and top it with the Fontina cheese ( see Photo A ). Fold the veal around the mushroom and cheese to enclose them. If there are gaps, pound another piece of veal and place it over them to seal. Coat the veal rolls in flour, then in beaten eggs, then roll in the panko to cover evenly ( Photo B ). Heat an ovenproof skillet until hot, then add 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. When the butter and oil are hot, add the veal rolls and cook until browned on the first side. Flip the rolls ( Photo C ), then place them in the hot oven to cook for about 5 minutes. When the cheese starts oozing out, the rolls are done. The veal will cook quickly, and the mushroom caps - already sauteed - just need to be warmed through. Remove from the oven and keep warm. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the button mushrooms and saute briefly, until they begin to give up their juices. Season with salt and pepper. Gently stir in 1 tablespoon butter and continue to saute. Add the veal stock, then the whipping cream. Bring the sauce to a simmer ( Photo D ) and let it reduce somewhat. Just before serving, swirl in 1 tablespoon butter to thicken and add creaminess. Simmer gently. Using a slotted spoon, divide some of the sauteed mushrooms between 2 dinner plates. Top the mushrooms with the veal rolls, then pour the rest of the mushrooms and sauce over the top. Garnish with basil. Makes 2 servings.

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