Pairing grilled wild Pacific salmon’s succulent, rich flavors and firm, smoky texture with wine and beer creates intriguing possibilities. Aromatic, rich white wines, fruity, elegant red wines and robust, hop-laden ales match equally well with this delicious delicacy. But before choosing libations, deft retail navigating is essential to netting the best blend of quality and value for the wild salmon itself. “Not all wild caught salmon is the same,” says Devenee Schumacher, general manager and executive chef at Benkovitz Seafoods in the Strip District. “The flavors and textures differ, and we like to educate our customers.” Wild-caught Pacific salmon’s five distinct species include Chinook or “King,” the largest at more than 15 pounds on average and with the highest potential fatty oil content for superior flavor. Coho or “Silver” are slightly smaller and have less potential oil content. The even smaller Sockeye or “Red” typically have the brightest red flesh color. Pinks and Chums, also known as “Keta,”are the smallest and often have the lowest fat content, but not always. “Just as the place where grapes are grown determines wine quality, sourcing in terms of the river of origin and year makes all the difference in the world in salmon quality,” says Steve Benyo, president of Pittsburgh Seafood Services and Benkovitz’s long-time wholesale salmon supplier. During late spring and early summer each year, fattened, muscular wild salmon return from the sea to migrate upstream in their river of origin to spawn. Long, cold rivers attract fatter, tastier salmon. While lauding prominent Cooper River and Yukon River King salmon, Benyo advises not overlooking smaller, but often superior-quality fish from obscure sources. Consider salmon from the Taku River and its tributary the Stikine River, as well as Kenai wild salmon from the icy, glacier fed, crystal blue Cooks’ Inlet. Alaskan authorities carefully monitor the annual catch in each of the state’s flourishing salmon fisheries. Commercial fishing is either constrained to a few weeks or even canceled. Consequently, quality and quantity varies in each river from year to year. “Limited wild salmon runs create excitement and urgency, especially as consumers become more sophisticated about the fish,” Benyo says. “Our job is keep on top of the sourcing options so our wholesale customers can meet retail demand with the best products in pristine condition.” Handling the fish properly after harvest is critical. Rather than working through redistributors in Seattle and Boston, Benyo buys directly from a small, core group of reliable, proven Alaskan suppliers. They fly the fish via commercial shippers to Pittsburgh to gain a couple of extra days’ freshness. And after 55 years of being in business, Pittsburgh Seafood Services works directly with native Eskimo fishermen who follow less-restrictive regulations. When salmon rivers are closed to commercial firms, Eskimos use their own commercial quotas to maintain supplies. “Alaska is a well-managed salmon fishery,” Benyo says. “It blends conservation of the fish and the bears who feed on the fish while accommodating local culture and the commercial fishing industry.” For the best value for July Fourth grilling, Benkovitz plans to offer Yukon River Keta, a fish Benyo says this year is as colorful and flavorful as many King salmons, and, possibly, Stikine River King, a rarely seen gourmet’s delight. Benkovitz Seafoods also accepts custom advance orders, including tasty poached salmon for takeout. Nearby at 2208 Penn Ave., Penn Avenue Fish Co.’s knowledgeable fishmonger Ronald Neumeyer, who has his own direct Northwest sources, plans to offer Kenai King and, possibly, Ivory King, a delectable wild white-colored salmon rarely available. Match the fish with the following: 2006 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Blanc Deschants, France (Specialty 21301, $16.99): A Rhône white with ripe melon and citrus flavors, light herbal notes, crisp acidity, refreshing mineral notes and a dry, elegant finish. Highly recommended . 2005 Alexander Valley Vineyards Viognier, Alexander Valley, California (Specialty 17848, $21.99): Peach, apricot and honey aromas and flavors balance crisp acidity and vibrant mineral notes through a well balanced finish. Recommended . Stone Brewing India Pale Ale: Generous “dry hopping: drives this audaciously flavorful, crisp brew. Highly recommended .

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