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'Sponge pizza' a tradition at Nuzzaci Pizza

John Sassak has always been right at home running his late grandma's pizza shop in Monessen.

Since 2002, Sassak has been the owner and operator of the family pizza shop that Cosamina Nuzzaci opened in 1952 in the basement of her 483 Knox Ave. home.

Nuzzaci was the head of Nuzzaci Pizza until she passed away in 1964.

Her daughter, Mary Sassak, who is John Sassak's mother, ran the business from 1964 until she passed away in 2002.

And as the shop has been handed down through the generations, the recipe for Nuzzaci's Sicilian square-pan, thick-crust pizza remains untouched.

"Nothing has changed," Sassak said. "We hand mix our own dough. It takes about seven hours. About every three days, I make 12 gallons of sauce.

"My grandmother and my mother would both roll over in their graves if I ever changed the recipe on it," Sassak added. "They call it 'sponge pizza.' "

Sassak, 58, said the business has been with him since his youth.

"When my grandmother died in 1964, we moved in here. I've been here since age 11," he said. "I used to clean up when we had the high school here. I could remember paper plates and bottles all over the place. I worked this though high school, then I drove a tractor trailer for 38 years and I got disabled from a bad wreck. I took it over in '02 when my mom died."

Using the same Blodgett steel stove his grandmother did, Sassak runs the shop with his sister, Cecelia, and sister-in-law, Charlotte Sassak.

Sassak's wife, Patty, helps out when she is not managing the Monessen Foodland deli.

Asked what is most rewarding about being behind the Nuzzaci's counter, Sassak said, "It's just seeing old faces. People come in that I graduated with from high school from the '70s and they're bringing their grandchildren in.

"That's what people remember: going to high school and coming here, getting three pieces and a Nehi grape (soda) for a quarter."

Many who have moved away from the Mid-Mon Valley frequently stop by and make sure to take a few Nuzzaci pies home when they visit Monessen, Sassak said.

Others ask for that homemade taste to be shipped to them.

"We FedEx and UPS all over the United States. We've sent to Seattle, and as far as Anchorage, Alaska," Sassak said. "One tray; I let them have it for $10, no matter what it is. UPS charges $65 for overnight for one tray, and people pay it; $75 to $80.

"One lady called up from Georgia and said her friend in Sarasota, Fla., hadn't had it since '65 when she graduated. She wanted to surprise her and we mailed it down to her. That was last year."

Sassak said Nuzzaci Pizza has kept prices reasonable throughout the years, even in a slumping economy.

"We haven't raised the prices in 15 years," he said. "People come in here and get a tray of cheese for $11. That's 15 slices. A tray of pepperoni with one topping is $12.75. A double topping is $14."

And how much for the works?

"It's $22," Sassak said. "And you need a crane or a forklift because that box is heavy when you walk out."

Nuzzaci Pizza doesn't deliver and there is only one item on the menu.

"It's just strictly pizza," Sassak said.

The owner said there are many long-time Nuzzaci Pizza fanatics.

"Mostly during suppertime, people send their kids in to eat," he said. "Even though the (Charleroi-Monessen) bridge is closed, people from Charleroi come over -- and Carroll Township and Donora.

"The people from the '50s, '60s, '70s and '80s, their grandchildren and great grandchildren come in."

Sassak said his time at the pizza shop is limited, but he cherishes every moment of carrying on the family business.

"I've got one daughter ... five nephews and a niece. None of them want it," Sassak said. "I'm going to be here until I'm about 65 or 66. In about seven years or so, we'll be closed down."

Additional Information:

If you go

Nuzzaci Pizza is located at 483 Knox Ave. in Monessen.

It is open from 3 to 8 p.m. Tuesdays and from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays.

The shop can be reached at (724) 684-4814.