A new breakfast eatery in town thinks it's hip to be both square and eccentric, and diners can see the evidence as they walk in. Square Cafe, appropriately named for its location in Regent Square, Edgewood, has square plates and even square bowls to reflect its name and personality. Other features and items also express its individuality. Orange, purple and green walls surround diners, who can enjoy popular dishes such as a salmon BLT and vegetarian items, along with standard salads, omelets, salads, fish and, naturally, coffee. Patrons even can cook indoor s'mores on the Square Cafe's portable s'more roasting machine, while executive chef Chuck Kerber makes occasional rounds to chat and tell jokes -- as well as hand out candy to single women. "We pride ourselves on doing things differently," says Sherree Goldstein, 36, co-owner and a resident of Regent Square in the city of Pittsburgh. "Nothing about us is cookie-cutter." Square Cafe opened late last spring as a result of co-owner Barbara Farrell's dream of owning a Regent Square restaurant focusing on breakfast, although many of the restaurant's entrees are for lunch and now dinner, which the cafe added beginning two days ago. Farrell joined with Goldstein, a longtime friend, and the two created a restaurant that patrons have compared to cafes in Chicago and San Francisco because of its personal, individualistic atmosphere and young, professional patrons who bring their children. Whether they sit on the outdoor patio along the Regent Square sidewalk or inside, patrons at Square Cafe are sociable and come from the surrounding neighborhood or other parts of greater Pittsburgh, the staff says. Neighbors often recognize each other and introduce themselves for the first time at the cafe and, just like in Europe, on busy days, strangers often sit at the same table. Square Cafe, where the staff say they know many customers by name, could be called a coffee-and-omelet version of "Cheers." "This really has become like a community place," says Farrell, who also lives in Regent Square in Pittsburgh. "You can have breakfast, and have it all day long." Kerber, a Pittsburgh native who grew up in San Diego, delights in preparing the meals with his two cooks regardless of the mad rush of a busy restaurant. That's a main part of his passion for being a chef, he says. "It's kind of an adrenaline thing -- how fast you can get the food out and make everyone happy," says Kerber, 34, a Swissvale resident who graduated from the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute in 1995. "It's a challenge." Kerber later earned a human resources degree from Point Park College in 1997, but he decided to return to the gastronomical roots that were developed throughout childhood. "It was more fun," says Kerber, who has held other chef positions at places including La Strada and the Omni William Penn Hotel. He also ran a part-time catering business for eight years. The chef started his career in entry-level positions at Baskin-Robbins and Taco Bell when he was in high school. Long before that, however, both of Kerber's parents, who were "resourceful cooks," began teaching him the basics of pots, pans and spices. "I've always loved to cook," he says, grinning. "From a young age, I was standing on a stool making pancakes -- with their supervision, of course."

Macadamia Crusted Tilapia with Crab Vegetable Medley and Coconut Ginger Sauce

Tilapia, a popular African fish, is delicious and affordable, says Kerber. Be very careful not to overcook it, because tilapia loses its flavor when it is tough. While the taste of this entree is fine enough by itself, don't neglect its picturesque potential, he says. "The presentation is real important. You eat with your eyes first." For the fish: 2 tilapia fillets, 6 to 7 ounces each Salt and black pepper, freshly ground 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 3 large eggs, beaten 1/2 cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs) 1/2 cup macadamia nuts 2 tablespoons olive oil, preferably extra-virgin For the Vegetable Medley: 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided use 1/2 each sweet red and yellow peppers, sliced thinly 1 cup thinly sliced carrots 1 cup claw or lump crabmeat 1 tablespoon sesame oil Pinch each of black and white sesame seeds Salt and black pepper, freshly ground, to taste 1/4 cup green onions 6 to 8 asparagus spears, chopped 6 whole asparagus spears For the Coconut Ginger Sauce: 1 cup pure coconut milk 2 tablespoons finely minced ginger root Peel of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons honey Salt and pepper, to taste For the garnishes (optional): Back and white sesame seeds, to taste 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley For the fish: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Season the tilapia fillets with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish, then the beaten egg in another shallow dish. Combine the bread crumbs and macadamia nuts in a third shallow dish. Dredge the fish in the flour, then in the beaten egg. Dip in the bread crumb-nut mixture to coat. Heat the olive oil in an oven-proof saucepan over high heat, and add a bit of salt and pepper. Gently lay the fillets in the skillet and saute until each side is lightly browned -- for about a minute on the first side and for a few seconds on the other -- then place the saucepan with the fillets in the heated oven for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on desired degree of doneness. Do not overcook the fish. For the Vegetable Medley: While the fish is baking, in a saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over high heat. Add, in order, the sweet peppers, carrots, crabmeat, sesame oil, sesame seeds, salt and pepper, green onions and the chopped asparagus. Saute briefly over high heat, so that the vegetables still are crisp. In a separate pan, add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and saute the whole asparagus spears for a few seconds so it is warm but still crunchy. For the Coconut Ginger Sauce: In a bowl, place all ingredients and whisk until blended. To assemble the dish: Arrange the 6 whole asparagus spears in spoke fashion in the center of the plate and top with vegetable medley. Place the fish on top of the vegetables. Add the sauce around the perimeter of the plate, and garnish with sesame seeds and parsley, if desired. Makes 2 servings. Send requests for your favorite restaurant recipes to Cooking Class, Pittsburgh Tribune-Review, D.L. Clark Building, 503 Martindale St., Pittsburgh, PA 15212. Fax: (412) 320-7966. Additional Information:

Restaurant Info

Square Cafe , 1137 S. Braddock Ave. in Regent Square, Edgewood, is open for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays, and for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. For details, call (412) 244-8002. Chef Chuck Kerber also can be reached by e-mail .

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