Despite passing by it almost daily for about a decade, I always thought of Kazansky's as the place you went to buy six-packs late at night. Something about the dumpy storefront and its dim, semi-hidden dining room in the back just didn't seem appetizing.
But then a friend insisted that we meet there to watch the Pens, and I'm happy he did.
Kazansky's makes great old-school deli sandwiches. The selection is fantastic, the freshly cut meats are delicious, and the atmosphere is pure, unfiltered, unpretentious Pittsburgh.
The dining room is a shrine to Pittsburgh sports, done with the quirky, meticulous attention to detail characteristic of the truly obsessed. There are photos of just about everybody who's anybody in Pittsburgh sports, bobbleheads, Super Bowl newspaper reproductions, even posters paying homage to the great Jewish major leaguers, from Hank Greenberg to Brad Ausmus.
Pirates manager Chuck Tanner smiles cryptically from a black and white glossy, his demeanor suggesting that you try the "best corned beef in Pittsburgh" or you'll be traded to Detroit for a nearsighted third baseman and a bag of gym socks.
Unlike the sandwich mountains at the Carnegie Deli in Midtown Manhattan, these are sandwiches that a sane, reasonable person can eat in one sitting. Wicky's Vegetable Delight ($6.95) combines a nice, smooth hummus with a lightly toasted six-grain bread. Bermuda onions, cucumber and asiago cheese round it out. The asiago is an unusual touch for a Jewish deli, but it works.
The Chutzpa ($7.45) puts a thick pile of sliced Virginia ham on toasted rye, with honey mustard and hot-pepper cheese. Supposedly, there are tomato and lettuce in there somewhere. Alexandra's Brisket Sandwich ($6.95) is a classic open-faced beef sandwich covered with dark gravy.
Walnut Trout Salad ($7.95) is a surprise -- a nice rainbow trout filet, roasted with crushed walnuts and covered with savory seasonings. It's served as a salad on a bed of mixed greens, which isn't even necessary. Avoid the super-oily Italian dressing.
This might be the only Pickle ($1.75) in town that eats like a meal. Slice it, or bite into it for a snap you can hear over the ballgame.
The Latke ($1.74) is just too heavy, greasy and fried-tasting for me; that poor potato never had a chance. But lots of people prefer their latkes like that. The Cheese Blintzes ($3) are utter perfection, though, with chewy sweet crepes wrapped tightly around farmers cheese, and cherry preserves to spread on top. Additional Information:
Kazansky's Delicatessen
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.-Sun.Address: 2201 Murray Ave., Squirrel Hill
Phone: 412-521-4555
I didn't get to try ...
The Marv Albert features beef tongue, swiss, lettuce and tomato. Never taste anything that can taste you back -- words to live by. Plus, I can't eat if I'm thinking about Marv Albert.
