The Tri-Boro Highway (Route 130), built to skirt around Turtle Creek, Wilmerding and part of Monroeville, also bypasses a fine-dining destination that's a grocery store, bakery, delicatessen, catering company and restaurant in one. The Station Brake Cafe, in Wilmerding -- a suburb of about 2,000 people -- seems an unlikely spot to tuck into Carbonnades of Beef Bourguignon, Coquille Marguery, Mussels Amontillado or Rosemary Lamb Chops. It's attached to a rather ordinary-looking convenience store that houses a small supermarket, a deli and a pizza shop, and the atmosphere won't make the pages of Gourmet magazine. "Our decor is outdated, but our customers don't come here for the decor," says Tom Setz, who owns the culinary complex. The cafe was founded in 1986. "It's laid out the old mom-and-pop way, but the food equals the quality of fancy resorts. And we're a word-of-mouth restaurant. We don't spend dollars pumping out the message." The Station Brake Cafe qualifies for what the food and hospitality industry defines as a "destination" restaurant, he says. "It means that clients pass up 10-20 other restaurants to come here. Most restaurant clients live 5 miles from the doors, but we've got regulars from Somerset, Pittsburgh and Greensburg." Anthony Ceresa -- "Chef Tony" -- has been in the kitchen since 1989. Neither he nor Setz has a formal culinary education, but they say they can cook with the best of them. The restaurant has an ambitious menu -- about 75 items -- that includes mushrooms stuffed three ways, imported French snails, lobster tails, Black Angus filets and blackened mahi-mahi. There are daily features, too. "You get bored doing the same things every day," says Ceresa. "We'll come up with some crazy item, and the public loves it." Adds Setz, "My chefs are conscientious about detail. They have great imaginations, and they love what they are doing. It's an art. They get to have fun." The menu cautions diners that, on average, it takes 2 to 2 1/2 hours to have dinner at The Station Brake Cafe. Everything is made from scratch or to order. The bar stocks more than 80 different beers and 100 different wines, as well as top-shelf liquors. Favorites are steaks cooked Bourbon-Street style -- blackened in a cast-iron pan with a Cajun brown butter sauce; deep-fried zucchini (an appetizer); veal parmesan; veal Atlantis, with jumbo shrimp, sea scallops and lobster in a sherry cream sauce; and seafood primavera. Sesame stir-fries are offered, along with health-conscious choices featuring shrimp, fish or chicken, and an array of pastas and sauces. Caesar and spinach salads are prepared tableside. Flaming desserts are a specialty. The restaurant culls its ingredients from items purchased for sale at the next-door grocery, which features a catering service, bakery and ice cream shop, says Setz. "It gives us better buying power." While not all of the meats, poultry, seafood and produce that make up the cafe's menu are displayed in the store, he says, "if you want a filet mignon, we'll cut it for you." While it's not listed on the menu at the restaurant, Setz's "famous patented chicken" is available for takeout, picnics or private parties right next door at Deli-icious, his delicatessen and catering service. "It's our signature product that everybody knows about," he says. And he's not kidding. Twenty-thousand pieces a week are no joking matter. The Station Brake Cafe , 500 Station St., Wilmerding, is open for dinner at 4 p.m. Sundays, 4:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, and 5 p.m. Saturdays. For those wishing to dine after 8 p.m., reservations must be made. The kitchen closes at 9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. There are special hours on holidays. Reservations are accepted. Details: Restaurant, 412-823-1600; Deli-icious takeout and delicatessen, 412-823-2000.

Infinite Pasta-bility

Tom Setz, owner of The Station Brake Cafe, in Wilmerding, says this recipe's name indicates its versatility. Using shrimp or other seafood as the protein, it's a Lenten dish. Chicken and beef can substitute; use chicken or beef stock to intensify the flavor. Select your favorite cheese to finish the dish, and mix and match vegetables and pasta shapes as desired.

2 tablespoons olive oil 5 cloves garlic, chopped 1/3 red bell pepper, cut into strips 1/3 yellow bell pepper, cut into strips 1 pound shrimp (31 to 40 count per pound), shelled and deveined, shells reserved for stock 12 artichoke heart quarters 1 bag (1 pound) fresh spinach 1/4 cup minced fresh basil 1/4-1/2 cup Seafood Stock ( recipe follows ) Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/3 can (8 to 12 ounces) pitted large black olives, drained, sliced in half lengthwise 1/2 pound penne pasta, cooked and drained 1/4 cup shredded fontinella cheese, or cheese of your choice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley Paprika, for garnish Frisee, for garnish

Pour the olive oil into a large skillet and place the skillet over medium-high heat to warm up. Add the garlic and saute for 10 seconds. Add the pepper strips and saute for about 1 minute. Add the shrimp and saute for 30 seconds ( Photo 1 ). Add the artichokes, spinach and basil, tossing ( Photo 2) . When the spinach starts to wilt, add 1/4 cup seafood stock, then squeeze in the lemon juice. Add the olives; combine well but gently, and cook until bubbly. Add the pasta ( Photo 3 ) and mix with the shrimp and vegetables until coated and heated through. If the mixture is too thick, add more shrimp stock. Stir in the cheese and parsley just until it is incorporated and the cheese has started to melt. Divide the mixture between 2 shallow serving dishes. Garnish with paprika and frisee. Makes 2 generous servings. Seafood stock

32 ounces (1 quart) water Reserved shrimp shells 1 rib celery, chopped 1/2 onion, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 3 whole black peppercorns 1 bay leaf

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan ( Photo 4 ), bring to a boil, and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain before using.

Beef Rolled Asparagus

Anthony Ceresa -- "Chef Tony" at The Station Brake Cafe, in Wilmerding -- shares this recipe for a quick and easy appetizer elegant enough to serve at a dinner party or to take to a gourmet group.

1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, at room temperature 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 2 tablespoons dried minced onion 2 to 4 tablespoons prepared horseradish sauce, to taste 18 thin slices premium deli-style roast beef, fat trimmed and discarded 18 large asparagus spears, blanched, cooled in an ice water bath, and drained

In a bowl, combine the cream cheese, chives, dried onion and horseradish sauce. Lay a piece of beef on a work surface, short end toward you, and spread the bottom half with some of the cream cheese mixture. Lay an asparagus spear widthwise near the bottom of the beef, over the cream cheese, and roll up tightly. Serve immediately, or wrap in plastic wrap to serve as long as 1 day later. Let the rolls warm slightly at room temperature before serving. Makes 18 hearty appetizers.

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