Around the Mediterranean, from Spain to Turkey and from Lebanon to Morocco, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are used together as the basis of countless dishes. Whether they are made into appetizers, side dishes or entrees, they are universally loved. They embody the lively color and flavors of the Mediterranean and often are cooked together with the region's favorite flavors — olive oil and garlic. Most dishes can be made in advance and can be served hot or at room temperature.
One of the simplest and best is Spanish escalivada, a Catalan specialty. The vegetables are simply roasted in pieces, mixed gently and served sprinkled with premium olive oil, minced fresh garlic, salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Similar salads are made in the Balkans, sometimes with chilies added. The vegetables might be finely diced or even pureed to form a spread, which gains a vivid red hue if the peppers chosen are red ones.
Moroccan cooks use the same vegetables to achieve a different effect. They dice eggplant small and cook it in oil with diced zucchini, crushed garlic, paprika and salt, and then simmer the mixture with diced tomatoes. Separately grilled peppers, both sweet and hot, are later added to simmer briefly with the other vegetables. Served hot or cold, this lively starter is sometimes flavored with cumin or vinegar.
Not surprisingly, Italian cooks turn the Mediterranean trio into pasta sauces. Eggplant and peppers might be grilled, and then part of the grilled eggplant is chopped and cooked in a tomato sauce. This savory sauce is tossed with penne or spaghetti and extra virgin olive oil and garnished with the grilled vegetables and fresh basil.
You could consider all these dishes cousins of Provencal ratatouille, the celebrated southern French dish that features eggplant slices, zucchini, onion and peppers fried in olive oil, and then simmered in a garlicky, herb-scented tomato sauce.
The Mediterranean trio is not reserved exclusively for vegetarian dishes. In Eastern Mediterranean countries, poultry or meat might join the vegetables. Cooks in Balkan countries simmer chicken pieces with browned eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. Lebanese cooks bake the same vegetables as a casserole with lamb cubes. A Turkish specialty called eggplant kebab is sometimes made as a stew featuring lamb cubes browned with chopped onions, simmered with diced tomatoes and served atop fried eggplant slices. The peppers come as garnish, either sweet ones in strips or hot ones grilled and served whole.
For cooks, the vegetables of the Mediterranean trio are the joy of late summer. Enjoy them while they are at the height of their season.
Eggplant in Tomato Sauce with Grilled Pepper Strips and Yogurt-Garlic Sauce
In Mediterranean and Middle Eastern countries, cool yogurt garlic sauce is a popular partner for savory vegetable stews like this one, which is flavored with sauteed onion and fresh basil.
To peel peppers, broil them, turning them often, for about 15 minutes or until their skins blister all over. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover tightly; or put sweet and hot peppers in separate plastic bags and close the bags. Let stand for 10 minutes. Peel peppers using paring knife and remove seeds.
• 1 3/4 pounds Japanese or small Italian eggplants, unpeeled
• 2 to 3 tablespoons premium olive oil
• 1 medium-size onion, chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 1 can (14 1/2 ounces) stewed tomatoes, preferably Italian-style (with basil, garlic, oregano), with their juice
• 2 sweet bell peppers, any color, roasted or grilled and peeled
• 2 tablespoons shredded fresh basil
• About 1 cup plain yogurt
• 1 clove garlic, minced fine
Cut the eggplant in crosswise slices about 3/8-inch thick. In a large, heavy saute pan or wide casserole, heat the oil and then saute the onion over medium-high heat for 7 minutes or until softened. Add the eggplant, sprinkle with salt, and stir until the eggplant is coated with the onion mixture. Cover and cook for 5 minutes, stirring once or twice.
Stir in the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the eggplant is tender. Cut the roasted, peeled peppers into strips and add to the eggplant. Cover and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the basil, reserving 1 or 2 teaspoons for garnish. Season with pepper.
In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with the garlic and season with salt and pepper.
Serve the eggplant hot or cold, topped with the yogurt sauce and garnished with the remaining shredded basil.
Makes 4 servings.
Balkan Grilled Eggplant-Pepper Salad with Tomatoes and Chilies
Throw some sweet bell peppers on the grill alongside an eggplant to prepare this tasty appetizer. Serve it with crusty bread or fresh pita.
If you like, you can broil and peel the tomatoes before dicing them and adding them to the salad. For a bright red salad, use 3 or 4 broiled sweet red bell peppers; blend them in a food processor along with the eggplant to a chunky puree and then stir in the finely diced tomatoes. For a milder taste, omit the chilies.
• 2 long, fairly slender eggplants (about 2 pounds total)
• 2 sweet red or green bell peppers
• 1 or 2 jalapeno peppers
• 2 medium-size cloves garlic, minced
• 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley, optional
• 2 to 3 tablespoons premium olive oil
• 1 tablespoon wine vinegar, optional
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 or 2 plum tomatoes, diced
• Capers, optional, for garnish
Prick the eggplants a few times, using a fork. Grill the eggplants above medium-hot coals for about 40 minutes or broil them for 25 to 30 minutes, turning often, until the skin blackens and the flesh is tender.
Grill or broil the bell and jalapeno peppers, turning them often, until their skins blister all over; the bell peppers need about 15 minutes, and jalapenos need only 3 or 4 minutes. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover tightly, or put the sweet and hot peppers in separate plastic bags and close the bags. Let stand for 10 minutes. Use a paring knife to peel the sweet and hot peppers and remove the seeds. Dice the sweet peppers and mince the jalapenos.
Leave the eggplants until cool enough to handle. Remove the eggplant skin and cut off the caps. Halve the eggplants and drain off any liquid inside. Chop the eggplant flesh to a chunky puree.
Transfer the eggplant to a bowl. Add the garlic, parsley, olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Stir in the peppers, chilies and diced tomatoes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve cold or at room temperature, garnished, if you like, with capers.
Makes 6 servings.
Penne with Peppers and Eggplant-Tomato Sauce
The sauce for this Italian dish contains grilled eggplant, which blends into the tomato sauce and lends an intriguing flavor. If the eggplant skin is charred only in a few bits, you can leave most of its peel on for more of a grilled taste.
• 1 pound eggplant, slim enough to fit in broiler
• 2 pounds ripe tomatoes or two cans (28 ounces)
• 4 to 5 tablespoons premium olive oil, divided
• 2 sweet green or yellow bell peppers, cut in large dice
• 1 zucchini, diced
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, or cayenne pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 12 ounces penne or mostaccioli
• Fresh basil sprigs, for garnish
Prick the eggplant a few times, using a fork. Grill the eggplant above medium-hot coals for about 40 minutes or broil it for about 25 to 30 minutes, turning often, or until its flesh is tender. Leave the eggplant until it's cool enough to handle. Remove the eggplant skin if it is blackened, and cut off the cap. Halve the eggplant and drain off any liquid inside. Cut about a quarter of the eggplant in dice; reserve. Puree the remaining eggplant in a food processor.
If using fresh tomatoes, peel, seed and chop them, reserving the juice. If using canned tomatoes, drain them, reserving the juice, and chop them.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, shallow saucepan. Add the peppers and saute over medium heat, stirring often, for 7 minutes. Add the zucchini and saute for 3 minutes or until the zucchini and peppers are tender. Remove from the pan.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan and heat it. Add the onion and saute over medium heat for 5 minutes or until lightly browned. Add the garlic, tomatoes, bay leaf, oregano, salt, pepper and crushed red pepper. Cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Discard the bay leaf.
Add the grilled, chopped eggplant to the sauce. If the sauce is too thick, stir in the reserved tomato juice. Cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until the sauce is thick and well flavored. Stir in the basil.
Cook the penne, uncovered, in a large saucepan of boiling salted water over high heat, stirring occasionally, for 9 or 10 minutes or until just tender, al dente. Drain well.
Transfer the penne to a large shallow bowl and toss with 1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil. Reserve about 1/2 cup sauce, and toss the remaining sauce with the penne. Add the reserved diced eggplant, peppers and zucchini. Serve garnished with basil sprigs. Serve the remaining sauce separately.
Makes 4 servings.
