The transition between the liveliness of summer and the bleakness of winter is a colorful one, marked with changing leaves, cooler air and shorter days.
The look of fashion is changing this season, as well. Silhouettes are becoming defined and shapely, and colors are emboldened. While there are definitive styles in the mix, fall fashions clearly are making their own transition.
"It's a funny season this year; the trends are not as clearly defined as they usually are," says Cynthia Weber-Cleary, In Style magazine's fashion director. "I would say overall it's a very grown-up season; it's not frivolous. This is more understated, and it's about real clothes and getting dressed."
Designers again have found the shape of a woman, hidden for so long under baby doll dresses, smocked tops and flowy frocks. "We were little girls; now we want to be women again," says Michelle McCool, fashion director of Cosmopolitan magazine. "It's a whole new feeling, a whole new silhouette."
The refinement of the season's looks isn't so much about trends, but, rather, mixing inspirations from classic styles.
"For this season, the shapes have become more established. We'll see a wider silhouette with a lot of volume, and on the other hand, we'll see some sexy outlines from the '70s," says Jennifer Uglialoro, H&M's fashion spokeswoman. Elements of '90s minimalism, 1940s Hollywood glamour and modern couture also are woven into fall collections.
Looks, textures and cuts from all of the inspirations are blended to achieve optimal style this season. "You're sort of breaking the rules; it's not so matchy matchy," Uglialoro says.
1. Ladylike silhouette
Fall fashions are emphasizing waistlines and hourglass shapes that were hidden under baby doll tops and flowy dresses this summer. "We're seeing a real return to a suited look again," says Michael Fink, vice president and women's fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue. "The silhouette is closer to the body, so it's much more curvy." Long silhouettes are emphasized with higher waistlines, straight-legged pants, leather gloves, pencil skirts, opaque tights and stiletto heels stacked with 1940s glamour.
The refinement carries into casual looks with tailored, trouser-like denim in deep blues and dark grays. "It's all about the jean that you can also wear in the evening. People are spending so much money and investing in their jeans -- who wants that distressed look?" says Amy Tara Koch, style and beauty expert at iVillage.
This Banana Republic black tie-neck dress ($148) hugs curves, especially when paired with a waist-cinching crocodile-covered buckle belt ($62). The ladylike lines are lengthened with matching tights and shoes, and long, simple leather gloves ($128) add elegance and sophistication.
Model Kim Brown feminizes the suited look with a Trina Turk multicolored boucle jacket ($340), Rich & Skinny brown denim pants ($181) and Pedro Garcia taupe satin pumps ($340), all available at Chick boutique, Downtown.
2. Saturated color
Fall's color palette draws more from Andy Warhol's pop art than the changing leaves. Electric yellows, greens, purples and blues peek out from beneath sweaters, wrap around waists in the form of skinny belts, and give shoes a kick of color.
"It can be a splash or it can something bigger, such as a very bright dress that's paired with some black opaque hose or tights," says Heather Hannan, Macy's Midwest public relations manager.
Style and beauty expert Andy Paige, who owns the Cents of Style fashion coaching service in New York, suggest using color in blocks, focusing the hues in one jacket, a pair of colored jeans or in accessories as accents. "You want to go more neutral with your other pieces and really allow that color to stand out and tell a story," Paige says.
When fall days get shorter, this purple puff-sleeve square-neck dress ($119) by INC, available at Macy's, will keep you looking ultraviolet.
3. Shades of gray
Shades of gray give balance to the popping hues of fall's color palette. It's a refined neutral that can pick up the sheen of metallics and shiny satin, and it's standing in as the season's black.
"The nice thing about gray is that it literally goes with every color," says Cynthia Weber-Cleary, fashion director of In Style magazine. Some fashion designers created an entire collection in gray, adding variety through different textures and shades.
Amy Tara Koch, style and beauty expert at iVillage, says the gradations of gray are worthy of the wardrobes of a Fifth Avenue grande dame. "If you don't want to be so somber, you can add a punch of color."
This little gray dress ($59.90) from H&M is just as sassy as its black counterpart.
4. Wide lines
The sculptured silhouettes of fall will be offset by voluminous pieces with wide legs, bell sleeves and exaggerated cuts. Balance and proportion is key to pulling this look off -- loose styles on the bottom should be paired with fitted tops, and vice versa -- and belts give shape and definition.
"Bottoms may be tight and skinny, but the tops and jackets are voluminous this fall," says Heather Hannan, Macy's Midwest public relations manager.
Amy Reed, owner of Chick boutique, Downtown, says her store is loaded with tops and jackets with puffed cap sleeves and flowy kimono arms. "The bubble shape is big," she says.
To go big on the bottom, wide legs and higher waistlines give a new shape to denim and dressy. "When it comes to trousers, the hip new shape is a Hepburn shape that's wider through the leg and slimmer through the body," says Andy Paige, style and beauty expert and owner of Cents of Style fashion consulting business in New York.
The high, fitted waist of these trousers ($59.90) balance out the trousers' wide legs and the exaggerated cut of the cropped leather jacket ($149). Both are from H&M.
This voluminous Trina Turk cape jacket ($466), modeled by Kim Browne, is balanced in proportion by skinny jeans, available at Chick boutique.
5. Men's Trends
Blazers, vests and elements of biker gear steer fall styles toward David Bowie's look of the 1980s. "It's very gender bending," says Amy Tara Koch, style and beauty expert at iVillage.
Touches such as metallic threading, herringbone piping and embellished buttons feminize the look. Fitted prep school-inspired blazers paired with low-slung wide-leg trousers suit the style perfectly. Topped off with a fedora and lace-up Oxford pumps or booties, the look has a structured softness. "There are a lot of menswear-inspired trends, which is very classic. Menswear fabrics and ideas are interpreted for women," says Cynthia Weber-Cleary, In Style magazine's fashion director. She says the pleats on pants this fall are slouchy and filled with forgiveness. "These are not the same pleated trousers that you might have had 10 years ago."
The structured lines of these Martin wide-legged, cuffed flannel pants ($98) are feminized by the puffed sleeves and soft touch of this angora and cashmere sweater ($58). A soft fedora ($58) and skinny lizard belt ($48) finish this look by Banana Republic.
6. Gloss and shine
Metallic shimmers make a subtle statement, showing up as embellishments on clutches, ballet flats and skinny belts. But the gloss and retro vibe of patent leather pumps is hard to miss, and saturated colors drip from shiny satins.
Sequins and metallics usually don't show up until the holidays to make a strong evening statement. "This time, they're here in the fall, and they're daywear," says Amy Tara Koch, style and beauty expert at iVillage.
A tee or cami laden with burnished sequins worn under a woolly sweater or a tough leather jacket is a surprising contrast of textures. Accenting an outfit with high-shine jewelry, handbags or shoes picks up the jewel tones of an outfit or adds an extra touch of glamour.
These yellow patent leather pumps ($34.90) from H&M will give a retro shine to any outfit.
7. Boots
Whether they rise to the thigh or sit at the ankle, a pair of boots is essential this season. They come stiff or slouchy, embellished with buckles or bows, pointed or round and flat or spike-heeled.
"Boots are back, and we're seeing a variety of heel heights, fabrics, detailing and color," says Joshua Thomas, spokesman for Target. But basic black can get the boot; Thomas says the pops of color that are showing up this fall give the footwear a kick.
Sassy ankle boots are back from last winter in more styles and price points, but should be worn with care. "They're being shown with skirts a lot, which is a great look if you've got great legs. But if you don't have great legs, don't try them," says Michelle McCool, fashion director at Cosmopolitan. She warns that a bootie's abrupt cut can shorten a leg line.
The deep plunge of Mossimo short slash-front boots ($29.99) will elongate legs, while black patent leather ankle boots ($36.99), by Isaac Mizrahi for Target, are a punky finish to an outfit.
8. Cropped toppers
Jackets and sweaters fall to abbreviated lengths this autumn, but they're long on style. "We're seeing a lot of great statement coats, which means not having a topper that blends in, but having a topper that really says something," says Cosmopolitan fashion director Michelle McCool.
Her essential item this season is a little leather bomber jacket in a fresh color to replace the go-with-everything jean jacket.
More elegant styles have three-quarter length sleeves, fur, patterns or pleats. "It's just so Grace Kelly," says Amy Tara Koch, style and beauty expert at iVillage. "The fall season is just so much about polish, and the cropped jacket is so emblematic of that."
The pleats and texture of this gray cropped coat ($59.90) from H&M top off any outfit with classic sophistication.
This Hanni Y layered wool and cotton cropped jacket ($666) makes a fresh statement for fall over Alice & Olivia skinny pants ($215) and Garcia pumps ($340), all available at Chick boutique.
9. Knit to fit
Wrapping up in a cozy sweater is a guilty pleasure reserved for fall, and designers indulged their collections with knits of all shapes, lengths and nubbiness.
Chunky, "Brit Knit" cable sweaters and long cardigans are in style, but they're not the same sweater that Mister Rogers kept in his closet.
"The frump factor has been removed. They're either deconstructed or cinched at the waist with a belt," says Amy Tara Koch, style and beauty expert at iVillage. "It's very cozy chic."
Pocketed boyfriend cardigans styled after Richie Cunningham's letterman sweater on "Happy Days" can top off slouchy menswear-inspired looks. "There's a whole preppy, collegiate look going on," says Michelle McCool, fashion director of Cosmopolitan.
The black knit of this INC baby doll dress, cinched with a skinny patent leather belt ($99 for dress and belt), softens a hard look and gives warmth on a chilly fall day. The ensemble is available at Macy's.
10. All dressed up
The pop art palette and long lines of the season are picked up in dresses of all shapes and styles. Shirt dresses, trapeze cuts, belted waists and straight silhouettes bring out effortless femininity and elegance in the way only a dress can.
"What we're seeing in dresses is a lot more color and some great graphic patterns," says Michelle McCool, fashion director at Cosmopolitan. Bold dresses are McCool's favorite transition piece for fall. When the weather is still warm, they're an effortless, colorful look. Layering matching tights and a turtleneck underneath adds warmth and drama when the wind gets chillier. For evening, deep saturations of navy and plum take over where the little black dress left off.
This black floral printed smock dress ($128) layered over a black turtleneck ($58), both from Banana Republic, is effortlessly dramatic.
This vivid purple and orange print dress ($29.90) from H&M is effortlessly energetic.
The deep mustard of this H&M dress ($39.90) can transition to fall when layered over tights and a turtleneck.
