You have to look hard to find a Turk in Pittsburgh. The last census counted 327 city residents of Turkish ancestry, about half the size of the Swiss contingent -- and when's the last time you met someone Swissâ¢
So newcomer Coskun "Josh" Gokalp's opening of a second Istanbul Grille is a good sign for our broadening palate.
Germans devour "doner kebabs" -- Turkish gyros -- as hungrily as Americans go for tacos. Upscale Turkish places are part of the scene in New York, Washington and London.
Now we can sample the cuisine of Asia Minor at Gokalp's new Istanbul Grille on Centre Avenue in Shadyside. The original is on North Craig Street in Oakland.
It's not completely uncharted territory. The menu includes plenty of familiar Middle Eastern offerings, such as a nutty-tasting Hummus ($4.99) or smooth, slightly sweet Babaghanush ($5.50). Gokalp smokes the eggplants for the latter himself, and boasts that none of his ingredients is frozen or canned.
We added a plate of Spicy Vege ($5.50) to decorate our pitas. A reddish spread of minced peppers, zucchini, eggplant and walnuts, it provides a good contrast to the others and tastes a bit like hot pickle relish.
Cacic ($4.99) -- the friendly waitress in the Turkish flag shirt told us it's pronounced "DJUH-jik," but then she turned out to be from Slovakia, so who knows -- is a cold, soupy mix of yogurt, chopped cucumbers, garlic and dill. Many entrees come with a side order or dressing of it.
For instance, you'll get cacik with Zucchini Pancakes ($9.99), pan-fried and very crispy on the outside, but much softer on the inside than typical restaurant fried zucchini.
Chicken or Lamb Gyros ($6 in a pita, $7 in a wrap, $11.99 for a platter) also come with cacik, although Istanbul Grille also supplies its homemade hot sauce on request. It has about the heat of red pepper flakes at a pizza place, and adds a fresh zip, mixing nicely with the cacik.
A more exclusively Turkish meat dish is Lamb Adana ($12.99). Ground meat and red bell peppers are formed on a skewer and grilled, then served on a bed of rice, with a grilled tomato and pepper, lettuce and red onions.
Gokalp keeps his adana mild for American palates. For something more savory, try Beyti ($13.99), which is adana with garlic and parsley added to the mixture.
Several exotic-sounding Turkish dishes on the menu -- Icli Kofte, Hunkar Begendi, Kazan Dibi -- weren't available when we visited. That's unfortunate; presumably, most people visiting a Turkish restaurant are looking for something other than the standard Middle Eastern fare.
The breads are good -- although they're bought, not baked. Gokalp says he's planning on getting a stone oven soon to remedy that. Then he'll start making "Turkish pizza," too, and if he does and there's any justice, Pittsburghers will flock to the place. In Germany, it's my favorite fast food, with doner meat piled on a hot, burrito-like shell, followed by a Subway-style custom-ordered construction of your lunch from a dozen wonderfully unfamiliar sauces and toppings.
For dessert, there's Baklava ($4), which the menu touts as "the best" and which, in any case, is certainly the most syrupy I've encountered. Approach this tasty pastry with fork, not fingers. Rice Pudding and Pistachio Pudding ($3.50 each) are both delicious.
A big soda cooler in the back seems to be the main decor, and your pop comes to the table in a can. Order a glass of ayran, a popular Turkish yogurt drink, if you want to be authentic and you love to drink unsweetened yogurt.
Much better, though, to finish with a cup of Turkish coffee, served in a demitasse cup. It's as strong as espresso, but Turks make it without straining or filtering -- just boiling finely ground coffee on the stove and then letting it settle a bit before pouring. If you go for the last drop, you'll get a mouthful of sediment. But if you take a bit of care, there's no better accompaniment to that forkful of baklava.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised. Additional Information:
Istanbul Grille
Cuisine: Turkish
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 3-11 p.m. Sundays
Entree price range: $9.99-$17.99
Notes: No smoking. BYOB with no corkage fee. Some sidewalk tables. All major credit cards accepted.
Address: 5501 Centre Ave., Shadyside
Details: 412-325-3347
