Tusca Mediterranean Tapas features exceptional dishes
With the number of area restaurants specializing in tapas, it's quickly becoming the favored mode of meal in Pittsburgh.
"You're almost forced to share and talk," says John Mowod, manager and co-owner of Tusca Mediterranean Tapas in Southside Works. "A meal is not only a nourishing time, it's a fulfilling time."
Ordering a variety of dishes and mini-meals means no longer agonizing over making that momentous, single choice of entree. We love the tapas experience in its social aspect. And it's surprising how all those "little bites" add up to one well-sated diner.
When Mowod -- whose partners include his father, jazz radio host Tony Mowod, Bob Crawford and Ray Davis -- began making plans for Tusca, he wanted to do something a little different from the usual Pittsburgh restaurants.
His out-of-town experience in restaurant and hotel management came into play in the creation of this casual, yet sophisticated spot, which opened in February.
The earth-tone color scheme includes shades of gold and deep reds, bare-wood tabletops, natural wood flooring and a wall fireplace. The white glowing bar top turns cocktails into glass jewels of ruby and topaz -- and highlights the attractive faces of patrons.
The open kitchen is visual proof to diners that no heat lamps are used.
"You don't have heat lamps in your kitchen at home," Mowood says. "Once a dish is prepared, it goes straight to your table."
That's a wonderful thing, but on a recent visit, a complete order arrived at the table all at once -- cold tapas, salads, hot tapas and entrees -- in a culinary traffic jam of dishes. If you're not in a rush to get through a meal, it might be a good idea to order what you consider your appetizers and salads and wait a bit to order the hot items.
This is, after all, the kind of meal meant for savoring. Under the guidance of executive chef Patrick MacFarlane, formerly of Plate 736 Bistro, in Shadyside, the kitchen produces exceptional dishes inspired by the cuisine of the Mediterranean coast.
Hummus ($4) with warm pita; Stuffed Roasted Pepper ($7) filled with mozzarella, basil, prosciutto and oreganato bread crumbs; and the Tusca house blend of Mediterranean Olives ($4) are a few of the nibbly starters from the cold tapas portion of the menu.
Salads include a refreshing Sicilian Orange Salad ($6) constructed simply with baby greens, a cubed orange and slivered red onion, tossed in extra virgin olive oil.
Grilled Mediterranean Vegetables ($8) is wonderful as a chilled salad. The assortment of veggies is tossed with a light lemon-thyme vinaigrette and set on baby greens. A disk of goat cheese coated with hazelnuts adds interest.
Another way to avoid a V-8 smack in the head is the Broiled Salmon Salad ($9). Saku wild salmon is served atop field greens mixed with tangerine-vodka vinaigrette.
Pair it with the aromatic pull-apart garlic bread, and you have a meal in itself -- unless your tablemates demand that you share.
Pizza and flatbreads range from classically simple Margherita Pizza ($9) to more exciting renditions, such as the Curry Kafta Flatbread ($12) with mint oil and spicy cardamom yogurt.
We couldn't resist the call of the Greek Lamb Flatbread ($13). The crunchy crust was piled with thin slices of lamb and melted crumbles of feta cheese, then dotted with olives and pepperoncini.
Hot tapas lists favorites such as Fried Calamari ($8), served with a roasted garlic and tomato remoulade, and yawning PEI Mussels ($9) in chardonnay and garlic-herbed jus.
The hearty and flavorful Spicy Seafood and Potato ($10) offers shrimp, mussels, clams and slices of Yukon gold potatoes in a bowl of zesty marinara sauce.
More commonly known as Beans and Greens, the White Cannellini Beans and Escarole ($7) is a splendid version of this traditional dish. The mix includes sherry, prosciutto and the house specialty -- exploded garlic.
Exploded garlic is used in many of Tusca's dishes. The technique involves sauteing garlic until lightly browned. Then it's flashed in cold white wine, making it almost explode. The method removes the garlicky bitterness, leaving a pure, smooth garlic flavor.
The exploded garlic is the basis for the sauce in the winning Angel Hair Pasta with Lobster and Shrimp ($9). The seafood is sauteed in chardonnay and spinach before becoming entangled in the angel hair pasta and garlic sauce in this exceptional dish.
A handful of entrees also are available, but that doesn't mean you can't share those, too.
Traditional Paella ($18) is assembled from saffron-enhanced risotto, clams, shrimp, chorizo sausage and chicken. Peas and carrots add spots of extra color.
The extremely tender Braised Short Ribs ($19) in a rich dark demi glace will satisfy the meat-lover in your party. An egg is included in this dish, as with several others of Spanish origin on the menu. In this case, the egg is gently poached in cabernet.
Exquisite desserts are prepared daily, throughout the day, by in-house pastry chef, Georgene Rondinelli (wife of jazz drummer Spider Rondinelli).
Almond Joy Pie ($7) describes the look on the face of the recipient of this beautiful concoction of chocolate and coconut.
With a whiskey sauce that's worth fighting for, the Chocolate Chip Pecan Pie ($7) is destined for my dessert hall of fame.
An unusually fluffy Cheesecake ($5) is served with a choice of strawberry or honey-nut sauce, and we went honey nut for a spectacular change of pace.
Black and White Chocolate Pate ($7) sets dark chocolate and white chocolate mousse side by side in a heavenly slab.
And here is where the tapas creed of share and share alike breaks down. Get your own dessert.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised. Additional Information:
Tusca Mediterranean Tapas
Cuisine: Mediterranean tapas
Entree price range: $16-$29
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, 11a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays. Sunday jazz brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. with pianist Frank Cunimondo
Notes: Full bar and wine list, including half-size bottles; valet parking; kid's menu; reservations accepted Sundays-Thursdays only; call-ahead seating on Friday-Saturday nights
Location: 2773 Sidney St., SouthSide Works
Details: 412-488-9000
