When Syrian restaurant Tyma'z opened two years ago in West View, owner Radwa Ibrahim performed the jobs of chef, waitress, hostess and dishwasher.
"Starting a new business isn't easy," says Ibrahim, 63, who lives in Ross. "I suffered a lot the first year. It was a challenge, and really hard, but I don't surrender and I never give up.
"Now I have four employees," she says with a laugh. "I'm starting to have time for myself."
Ibrahim is not your typical restaurant owner and chef. Hailing from the ancient coastal city of Jablah, she worked her entire adult life as an elementary school teacher in Syria. When she retired 10 years ago, Ibrahim decided to move to America.
"I always dreamed to come here," Ibrahim says. "I wanted a business for myself, and I didn't want to sit around and do nothing. A friend's son was a pediatrician in Pittsburgh, and he told me to come here. I got here in 2001."
It took Ibrahim several years to work up the courage to open her authentic Syrian restaurant. Her mother was "the best cook in the world," she says, but Ibrahim didn't appreciate her mom's skills when she was growing up.
"My mom tried to teach me when I was young, but I didn't want to learn until I was older," says Ibrahim, who is single and has no children. "I have one sister who is a very good cook like my mom. Everything I do here, I try to get it to taste like what my mom would've made."
Although Tyma'z offers some dishes from other Middle Eastern countries, Ibrahim says her menu is decidedly Syrian. She hand cuts the halal meats, and makes everything from scratch.
"Syrian cuisine depends on the city — it's not very spicy in the city where I'm from," she says. "I shop every day in the Strip District. I get my fresh produce there, and my fish at Wholey's and Restaurant Depot."
Ibrahim's menu is exotic and exciting. Her appetizers include baba gannouj, a chunky roasted eggplant with yogurt and tahini sauce; falafel, seasoned ground chickpea patties; spinach pie and meat pie. Also available are platters of hummus, tabbouli, baba gannouj, feta and olives. She gives a nod to Italy with her wedding soup, and also features a lentil and sauteed onion soup and a homemade yogurt salad.
Syrian food emphasizes fresh vegetables, and Tyma'z offers many vegetarian entrees. Among them are Mujaddra, a plate of rice and red lentils topped with caramelized onions; grape leaves stuffed with fresh tomatoes, vegetables, rice and spices; and moussaka, or eggplant layered with a blend of cheeses in a tomato sauce with onions and green peppers. Shish kebabs are on the menu, and sandwiches are available for takeout only.
Entrees include baked kibbee, layers of ground beef and cracked wheat filled with onions, spices and nuts and topped with toasted almonds. The Bazila is a combination of ground beef, English peas, and spices stewed in a rich tomato sauce with green peppers and onions. Beef Shawarma, a favorite, features thinly sliced steak coated in a bold sauce. Chicken and lamb dishes are marinated in sauces and grilled, baked, or sauteed.
"Syrian food is mostly eaten with rice or a rice pilaf," Ibrahim says. "We also serve our appetizers with warm pita bread."
The 49-seat restaurant gets its name from a female name in Syria — Tyma, which means "to love." The "z" at the end is the first initial of people who Ibrahim loves the most. The restaurant is comfortably casual, bathed in warm red tones and subdued lighting.
While Ibrahim misses her family in Syria, and the breathtaking view of the Mediterranean Sea from her house, Ibrahim feels that she's right where she's supposed to be. Opening another location, perhaps in Cranberry, is not out of her reach, she says.
"There are some Syrian families in Pittsburgh, but most of my customers are American families and young people," Ibrahim says. "I get a lot of teachers, too. Many of my customers and people I do business with are now my friends."
"My success comes from having a positive attitude, and good friends who help me a lot," she says. "It's a gift from God."
Spicy Fish
Owner and chef Radwa Ibrahim chose to share her popular and easy Spicy Fish dish with Cooking Class. This is a typical Syrian dish that utilizes the fresh fish her country's coast is known for, she says.
"I use tilapia because it reminds me of the fish we catch overseas," she says. "It's not farmed fish."
The tilapia comes out tender and flavorful, thanks to the rich mushroom tomato sauce. You'll savor every bite.
This dish would go wonderfully with a good white wine such as chardonnay or riesling.
For the fish:
• 1 (9-ounce) tilapia fillet
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• Pinch salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce:
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 1/2 tablespoons coriander
• 1 tablespoon hot pepper paste (can find in Middle Eastern markets in the Strip District)
• 1 cup tomato sauce
• 1 cup whole button mushrooms
For serving:
• White or jasmine rice, cooked, or rice pilaf
To prepare the fillets: Place the tilapia in a baking dish. Pour the olive oil and lemon juice over the fish (see Photo 1), and season with salt and pepper.
Bake in a 400-degree oven for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat.
Add the garlic and saute until lightly browned, and then add the coriander and stir (Photo 2). Add the pepper paste, tomato sauce and mushrooms (Photo 3).
Bring to a simmer, and let simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off the burner and let sit until the fish is done.
When fish comes out of the oven, pour the sauce over it and return to the oven. Cook for 15 minutes more so the fish can absorb the flavors of the sauce.
Serve with white or jasmine rice or rice pilaf.
Makes 1 serving.
Additional Information:Tyma'z
Cuisine: Syrian
Hours: 4-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays. Closed Mondays.
Entree price range: $10-$20
Notes: Major credit cards accepted. Handicapped accessible. BYOB for $2 corkage fee per person. Occasional live entertainment. Special lunch events for private parties.
Address: 96 Rochester Road, West View
Details: 412-931-9005 or online
