Water stain removal depends on wood finish
Question: Did you talk about removing water stains from wood several months ago in your newspaper column? I remember seeing it in the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review. Thanks.
— Pittsburgh
Answer: Yes, it is a subject that comes up every once in a while.
The removal of water marks from wood depends on whether the water mark is on bare wood or finished pieces.
On bare wood, the water stain will be darker than the rest of the piece. The first thing to try is a bleach solution: a ratio of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water, for a start. Increase the proportion of bleach if needed.
If the bleach does not do the job, oxalic acid is the chemical to use. It can be purchased in paint stores and in some hardware stores. Mix the crystals to saturation in hot water, using a glass or plastic container; never use metal tools or containers with oxalic acid.
Apply the saturated solution to the stain gently, using as small a brush as needed, such as an artist's paintbrush or a foam brush.
Be extremely careful with oxalic acid, as it is very caustic. Cover your skin and protect the eyes.
Once the stain is gone, the treated area may be lighter that the rest of the piece. The entire surface may have to be lightly bleached to even out the color.
Water stains on finished surfaces may come in two ways. If the stain is white, it has not penetrated all the way through the finish. The removal is likely to be easier than if the water has penetrated through the finish and is staining the wood itself — in this case, a darker stain shows.
For removing white water marks from finishes, I have seen many suggestions over the years. One is from a renowned French furniture refinisher. He mentioned rubbing the water mark with butter until it disappears. He also described scrubbing the watermark with white toothpaste — a common suggestion.
Mayonnaise and Vaseline also have been suggested, as has furniture polish. A good one to try is Milsek (www.milsek.com).
If all else fails, it may be time to involve a professional furniture refinisher.
Wet basement help
Q: I read your column about repairing a wet basement from the inside, but I have a question. The information you gave was in regard to a block foundation, and my foundation is concrete. I found several cracks that I guess you would call rust explosion holes caused by the tie bars rusting from inside the concrete.
I have a finished basement and had to rip down part of the wall to find the cracks and holes. I used an epoxy injection system for the cracks and Hydroseal 75 for the holes. That stopped the leaks in the walls, but now I have water coming from where the wall meets the floor. I also had a Bentonite clay injection done on the outside of the wall ,and there still appears to be a leak.
I really don't want to install drain tiles and rip up the basement floor. Do you have any other suggestions that might work?
— via email
A: If the leakage happens during normal rainfall, it sounds as if you have a grading problem. Check all around the foundation for flat or low spots that allow water to collect and run down to the footings, looking for a weak spot for relief.
If you find any, raise the grade to obtain a gentle slope away from the foundation, and grow a healthy stand of grass on it, or plant a dense ground cover. Avoid flower beds or bushes; both encourage moisture retention and penetration.
If any appendages have settled and are directing water toward the foundation, they need to be repaired. Gutters and downspouts need to be cleaned regularly and kept functioning. If downspouts are connected to underground drains, these need to be kept open, which may require frequent inspections.
If the leakage occurs only after heavy or prolonged rainstorms, it may be caused by a suddenly rising water table or underground spring. This type of leakage is more difficult to take care of and may require interior subslab drainage, which you do not wish to undertake.
Condensation problem
Q: I appreciate your advice. I have a small bathroom with no air conditioning or exhaust fan. I do open the window during warm weather.
I have a cabinet sink. I'm getting condensation under the bowl causing metal under the sink to rust. Is there any way I can insulate it?
Can I use “DryLock” waterproofing paint on the underside of the bowl? I did try “DampRid” to no avail. The sink is less than 10 years old.
Thank you for any advice you are able to give.
— via email
A: I assume that by cabinet sink, you mean a vanity. You are describing an unusual situation. The age of the sink should be irrelevant, but its composition may not be. Is it a metal sink?
The condensation you experience must only occur when cold water runs or stands in the sink. Are you on well water, which is usually quite cold?
Paint will not stop condensation. Short of spraying canned foam on the sink's underside, I have no other suggestion.
Send questions to Henri de Marne at First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106; or email henridemarne@gmavt.net.
