Wild Rosemary Bistro builds clientele with 'feminine' menu
Although Wild Rosemary Bistro in Upper St. Clair has been open only since September, it already has made a name for itself.
With its Dijon mustard-colored walls, slate floor, red inlaid tile fireplace, stainless-steel tables and matching chairs, the quaint restaurant along Bower Hill Road has built quite a following. It holds just 28 seats, but that's enough for owners Cathleen Enders, Lynne Bielewicz and Gloria Fortunato.
"Yes, we've been received very well," says Enders, 52. "Our clientele says our restaurant reminds them of places in California or Europe. We serve no soup, salad or appetizers, and no bread and butter. Everything is served as one course."
Fortunato, 47, is the only chef and takes pride in preparing her eclectic cuisine, which has Italian and Mediterranean influences. She changes the menu every two weeks so the dishes don't become stagnant. Bielewicz, 54, is the baker who makes the luscious desserts that change weekly.
"Our cuisine is simple and feminine — fresh and regional, and something that takes time," Fortunato says. "Our clients have become our friends. They're accepting and adventurous. But scallops can never not be on the menu. We just prepare them a different way with each menu change."
The little stone restaurant is open evenings Tuesdays through Saturdays. It was open for lunch in the beginning, but the women found it to be too much work. They do everything: ordering, cleaning, cooking, baking, dishwashing and mopping — even killing weeds in the parking lot. They also have several part-timers who work with them.
The three friends opened Wild Rosemary Bistro because they "always had a dream," Enders says. The building had been the site of various pizza joints over the years.
"We always wanted to do this," Enders says. "We saw this building for rent one day, and here we are. It took three to four months to get it into shape.
"We think it's been worth it," she says. "We've been fortunate, especially in this economy. Our demographics show that we're in a good area. Our clients don't have to drive far, but they do come from all over."
Fortunato is a trained chef who graduated from Pennsylvania Culinary Institute in 1991. She also teaches cooking classes at Crate Kitchenware Store and Cooking School in Pittsburgh. Fortunato lives in Dormont, Enders resides in Scott and Bielewicz in Mt. Washington.
"My mom was a phenomenal cook," Fortunato says. "I learned everything from her. We do everything from scratch here. I'm a very organized person — you have to be, as a chef. The beauty of cooking is that it's not an exact science, as opposed to baking."
Her menu is truly adventurous, featuring items such as red snapper with red-pepper jam, French lentils and asparagus; grilled lamb loin chops with a Jerusalem artichoke souffle and roasted carrots; Long Island duck with grilled balsamic strawberries and arugula; and pan-roasted bistro chicken with grilled smashers, spring vegetables and tomato coulis.
Fortunato asks for no substitutions on the menu, please.
"We layer the flavors here," she says. "We double-finish everything. Everything here is based on reduction — there are no roux here. Cooking is patience."
For Enders, the best part about being her own boss is the freedom.
"If I want to change something here, I can. I don't have to send an e-mail or phone someone," Enders says. "We can be much more creative. We're self-contained here. We didn't have to find a chef or anything."
Pan Seared Scallops with Spaghetti
The women of Wild Rosemary Bistro chose to share their popular scallops with Cooking Class. The Pan Seared Scallops with Spaghetti is a sure dinner pleaser. The scallops turn out so succulent and tasty that guest will be begging for more.
"This is simple, and simple is good because people will try to do this at home," Gloria Fortunato says. "This dish is indicative of what we do here. Most of all, it's feminine — and that's good."
• 4 tablespoons butter, divided
• 1 1/2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 minced shallots
• Pinch of crushed red pepper
• 2 ounces white wine
• 8 ounces chicken stock
• 2 green onions, chopped
• 1 bunch asparagus, chopped
• 6-8 (U/10-size) scallops
• Pinch of sea salt
• Pinch of cracked black pepper
• 8 ounces cooked spaghetti (No. 5)
• Roasted grape tomatoes ( see note )
• 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, shaved or grated
• 1 tablespoon parsley
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Add the minced shallots and a pinch of crushed red pepper. Saute for 3 minutes.
Add the white wine and chicken stock, and reduce by one-third.
Add the green onions and asparagus.
Heat the remaining butter and olive oil in another pan. As soon as you stop hearing it bubble, place the scallops in the saucepan. Don't shake the pan, because you want a crust to form on the scallops.
Cook for 3 minutes on each side. Add a pinch of sea salt and a pinch of cracked black pepper to the scallops.
In the meantime, add the cooked spaghetti to the sauce, and heat through.
Place the spaghetti on a plate, place the cooked scallops on top of the spaghetti, and add the roasted grape tomatoes on top, along with the shaved cheese and parsley.
Serve immediately.
Makes 2 servings.
Note: Roast several grape tomatoes at 250 degrees for 4 hours, and rotate them halfway through the cooking process. Cut in half lengthwise.
Additional Information:
Wild Rosemary Bistro
Cuisine: Eclectic
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Entree price range: $27-$38
Notes: BYOB, with a $2-per-stem corkage fee. Reservations strongly recommended. Seating until 9:30 p.m. Handicapped accessible. Major credit cards accepted.
Address: 1469 Bower Hill Road in Upper St. Clair
Details: wildrosemary.com or 412-221-1232
