Zest for success at Moon cafe

Hotel restaurants tend to be overpriced and boring, according to John Druga, food and beverage director at the Embassy Suites Pittsburgh-International Airport.

That's why the Embassy Suites' newest venture, Cafe Zest, serves upscale cuisine in a casual dining environment for customers looking for something unique and not pricey. Cafe Zest opened in November following an $8 million renovation of the hotel and the restaurant.

There's only one other Cafe Zest in the United States and that's in Roswell, Ga. NHH Hotels & Resorts own the Embassy Suites, with the company's president and CEO John J. DePaul dedicated to making Cafe Zest a success, Druga says.

"This used to be the Foggy Bottom," says Druga, 41, of Green Tree. "We tried to create a new entity from the hotel with Cafe Zest. We wanted to be different, plus offer healthy items. Our goal is to become a destination place."

It is a pleasure to walk through the hotel atrium to get to the restaurant. Renovated to look like an indoor tropical rain forest, the three-story atrium features lush green trees and plants, a 200-foot trout stream that brims with colorful koi, and a beautiful waterfall. Cafe Zest's comfortable, 66-seat dining room sits amidst the soothing scenery, with lime green chairs, woven placemats on the wooden tables and cream-colored linen napkins. The exposed brick floor meanders to the bar area, where another 50 seats are available in a rustic setting.

Executive chef Joe Comunale developed the innovative menu along with Ernie Catanzaro, executive vice-president of operations at NHH Hotels & Resorts. Comunale, 49, has been a chef for 15 years and worked at various hotels throughout the years, including Marriott, Wyndham and Radisson. The Monroeville native had worked in his dad's machine shop for 13 years before going to Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, where he graduated in 1994.

"My two uncles owned restaurants, and my grandmother worked with them, and she taught me how to cook," says Comunale, who lives in Bridgeville with his wife and four daughters. "Being a chef was always in the back of my mind when I worked with my dad. I did a complete career change.

"I learned a lot at culinary school that my grandmother didn't teach me, like the basics you need to learn to get into the food industry," he says. "My philosophy is to use the best ingredients you can find and be healthy, and that's the direction the food industry is going."

Being a chef in a hotel restaurant is a lot harder than in a free-standing restaurant, according to Druga.

"You have a lot more responsibility and have to be well-diversified," he says. "There are a lot more managerial things -- food, budget, overseeing staff, putting together banquets and private catering. Joe manages his time wisely. He's great."

Comunale also is creative, if the well-rounded menu is any indication. For starters, he offers fried calamari, crab nachos, vegetable bruschetta, blackened shrimp with a spicy fruit salsa and banana peppers stuffed with mushrooms and served with marinara and mozzarella. Six inviting salads are on the menu, as are quesadilla wraps, fish tacos, grilled margarita pizza and hearty 10-ounce burgers.

"Our biggest seller is the 10-ounce burger," Comunale says. "We sold 390 burgers just this past month."

There are six entrees to choose from. Comunale features Asiago Herb Encrusted Chicken with Fresh Fruit Salsa; Penne Whole Wheat Pasta with Tomatoes and Fresh Mozzarella; Filet Mignon with Cabernet Butter; New York Strip Steak with Tobacco Onions and a balsamic reduction; Cedar Plank Salmon; and whatever fish is on the market for the day.

"Our most popular entrees are the Asiago Chicken and the steaks," he says. "I use US Foods in Greensburg for our meats and seafood, and get some items from Curtze Food Service out of Erie. We get our produce from Anthony's in Coraopolis, and Paragon in Pittsburgh. We change the menu every six months, but have daily specials."

Comunale loves what he does, and says the best part of his job is satisfying customers.

"In the beginning, there were a lot of long hours, and I'm still here on weekends," he says. "But I like making people happy. It's nice. I enjoy it."

Chef Joe Comunale's delicious Crab Nacho Appetizer is a best-seller at Cafe Zest, and some diners order it as an entree, he says. The tortilla chips are made fresh in the kitchen, as is the pico de gallo, black bean corn relish and avocado aioli.

This appetizer would be great paired with a Riesling wine, or a citrusy beer such as Leinenkugels.

• 2 1/2 ounces tortilla chips

• 1 cup Black Bean Corn Relish (see recipe)

• 1 cup shredded Vermont white cheddar cheese

• 1 cup lump crab meat

• 1 cup Pico de Gallo (see recipe)

• 1/2 cup Shredded Lettuce

• 1/4 cup Avocado Aioli (see recipe)

Layer half of chips, black bean corn relish, white cheddar cheese, crab meat and pico de gallo.

Build another layer using remaining product.

Bake in oven at 450 degrees for 5-7 minutes, until cheese is melted and browned.

Top nachos with shredded lettuce and avocado aioli, or serve aioli on the side for dipping.

Makes 1 serving.

Black Bean Corn Relish:

• 1/2 cup black beans

• 1/2 cup frozen corn

• 1/2 cup yellow pepper, diced

• 1/2 cup red pepper, diced

• 1/2 cup green pepper, diced

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil

• Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in large mixing bowl.

Pico de Gallo:

• 3 Roma tomatoes, diced

• 1 1/2 jalapeno pepper, diced

• 1/2 medium white onion, diced

• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar

• 1 tablespoon lime juice

• Salt and pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients and mix well, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Avocado Aioli:

• 1 cup guacamole dip

• 1 cup mayonnaise

• 3 tablespoons lime juice

• 1 teaspoon fajita seasoning

• 1 teaspoon coriander

• Salt and pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients in large mixing bowl.

Additional Information:

Cafe Zest

Cuisine: New American

Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. in dining room, until 11 p.m. at the bar, seven days a week

Entree price range: $17-$27

Notes: Major credit cards accepted. Handicapped accessible. Reservations accepted. Weekday lunch buffet featuring five hot items, a full salad bar and dessert bar for $12.50. Suggested wine pairings. Mother's Day buffet in the ballroom from noon-5 p.m. with reservations.

Address: Embassy Suites Pittsburgh-International Hotel, 550 Cherrington Parkway, Coraopolis

Details: 412-269-9070 or website